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Originally Posted by denveremerson
What is the best invisible thread? My Horizon's tension has a nervous breakdown with the stuff. I can do a sample piece and get the tension right. Then after FMQ for a little bit, it tangles and "eyelashes" like crazy. I've tried a couple different brands, Sulky is one of them. I use a cone holder to let the thread relax a bit before it gets to the machine. And I use a metalic needle with a large eye. Any help would be really appreciated.
Originally Posted by w7sue
Has anyone here used the EssentialPRO thread from Connecting Threads on their longarm machines?
How do you like it? Would you recommend it?
If you didn't like it, don't recommend it, what do you recommend?
I need thread for my machine - don't want to get a business license so I can go to EE Schenk (in Portland, Oregon) and don't want to really pay an arm and a leg for thread.
Originally Posted by bdship
I was on a twister kick, they were habit forming. Made with the small tool.
Originally Posted by quiltingweb
A friend has given me a quilt to quilt. I have a long-arm machine. My question is...the top and back are about the same size, both are pieced with different block sizes and fabrics. The back is about an inch wider than the top. I've added muslin fabric to the top and bottom of the back of the quilt so I can attach it to my leaders.
Should I float the top so I can adjust as I go, or do I attach it to the roller? I've floated the top before on quilts, but I've always had a generous
Originally Posted by Quilter in MN
Silly question but I am new to embroidery and was wondering if there is a good place to get blanks such as baby bibs?
Originally Posted by sandpat
Here is the quilt that I finally finished. I started with the group here on the board in Jan. 2010 to make the quilt based on Jane Stickle's quilt. She made hers in 1863. I decided to use a dark background rather than the cream and to update the colors. As I worked on it, Lacelady mentioned that she was going to use a solid color for her triangles that went between the pieced triangles. This would make the pieced triangles stand out more. I liked the idea (so I stole it from her), but I then
Originally Posted by maryb119
I had a 3 yard piece of batik in my stash for several years waiting for the right fabrics and pattern to come along to use it and here it is! The picture of the whole quilt shows more yellow than it really is but these are cell phone pictures so please be patient with me about them. The actual colors lean more towards blue. I love the bright colors. The top is finished and the binding will be the saphire blue the separating strips are made of. I had about a fat 1/8th left over from 3 yards so
Originally Posted by carolaug
Originally Posted by carslo
I read this in a jelly roll book I bought and have started to use this method when cutting strips for any kind of quilt.
"If you have strips that have been cut selvage to selvage(WOF) along the crosswise grain (which most are as it is easiest), just cut the strips in half on the fold. This works well for a number of reasons.
- it helps keep fabrics on-grain and eliminates the bowing or curving that may occur when fabrics of differing thread counts are used.
Originally Posted by ladyinred
Here is the pattern for the twister christmas tree like I did it.
This one is done by using the mini twister tool (tool size is 2 ¼ by 2 ¼ )
After sewing all blocks and borders together, the size is 36 3/4 by 46 inches. (before cutting with the tool)
When all twister pieces are sewn together, it measures approx. 20 by 25 inches.(without Borders and Binding)
Now, you can add borders the size you like and finish your quilt the way you like.