Originally Posted by patper
Just discovered an amazing way to do it, from Nancy's Notions serger techniques book. First, trim the edge of the quilt layers to even things up, then use fusible thread in the lower looper, and sew the binding to the edge of the quilt, raw edges together, binding on the top. When you fold the binding over to the other side, gently iron it down on that side of the quilt. Voila! No pins, no basting, and best of all, no moving! I attach all this with the back of the quilt up, then fold to the front
Originally Posted by QuiltnNan
Here is a mat I worked out in EQ5. the mat is 13x19 and the center rectangle is cut at 7.5x1.5 . all of the other strips are 1.5 finished, so 2.0 cut.
Originally Posted by ljfox
I baste the quilt top and the batting on the top only before I start to longarm it. The bottom of the quilt top is on one of the rollers so that I can tighten it as appropriate. I was told when I started longarming to baste the sides before quilting but this has caused more problems for me so I don't do that anymore. I just make sure it is straight with the sides every time I roll it and that works for me.
Originally Posted by Bobbielinks
I never secure the quilt top to the roller. I always pin the backing to the rollers ( the take up roller and the bottom backing roller), lay the batting on top of the backing with the edge of the batting even with the edge of the roller. Then I come down on the batting about one and one-half inch and run a basting stitch across the batting to hold it in place on the backing. This basting stich is done with the channel lock on to give a true straight line of stitching. I then lay the quilt's top
Originally Posted by irishrose
I like Full Spectrum bulbs, but Phillips has a new EcoVantage Natural Light line I am trying. I can only use 60 watt bulbs in my overhead light because of the close proximity to the ceiling. These new energy saving bulbs are 53 watts, but as bright as 75 watts. Yes, they really are brighter than the 60w Reveal bulbs I replaced, so a switch of all the bulbs in the room might help. Then I have a small buffet lamp that sits behind my sewing machine that throws light on any area the SM light doesn't.
Originally Posted by Holice
Several years ago there was a vendor on the quilt show circuit who demonstrated using the chak pounce powder
They would stencil the design and then spray with hair spray to hold the chalk while hand quilting.
The Magic Chalk pounce powder stays on longer than the regular chalk powder.
However, the suggestions are good that the machine should be cleaned out after using as the powder will collect in the mechanism of the machine.
Originally Posted by cmw0829
I walked into a class last week with all of my pieces cut up, ready to sew. I informed the instructor that I did not want to draw lines on the back of my little squares in preparation for making my 160 flying geese blocks. I don't want to draw the lines, I don't like drawing the lines, etc.
As I was preparing to figure out how to lay tape on my machine so I'd have a straight edge to run the corner of my little sqaure along as I sewed it to the rectangle, the instructor suggested this
Originally Posted by RkayD
I make my own dog treats.. 1 pkg beef liver 2 cups flour maybe mix in some oats to equal 2 cups..and 1-2 eggs. Mix it all together ~ I use the food processor until its just mixed and bake like cookies. My dogs LOVE these.
Originally Posted by valleyquiltermo
my momma taught me to use oiled stablizer like pellon put a drop of oil on it, and it works also.