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-   -   How to Sound Proof a Room?? (https://www.quiltingboard.com/general-chit-chat-non-quilting-talk-f7/how-sound-proof-room-t206774.html)

CindyA 11-23-2012 06:45 PM

How to Sound Proof a Room??
 
We're trying to create a quiet office space. The shared wall is paper thin and noise (including phone calls, conversations, music and tv) sounds like they're in the same room. We do NOT want to tear out the walls and add insulation then put the drywall up again. Have you had any good experiences? We're researching blow in expanding foam insulation, attaching fabric covered panels on the shared wall, hanging fabric along the wall (it's sold, and looks like a large quilted piece of white fabric). Any good or bad experiences you've had appreciated.

dakotamaid 11-23-2012 07:00 PM

Some informative reading.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...7210436AAqyfNz

DogHouseMom 11-23-2012 08:06 PM

Cork is also a good sound insulator. You can buy cork squares at your DIY.

MTS 11-24-2012 02:01 AM

Friends and I have had this issue in various Manhattan apartments, where, because of various co-op or condo rules, the solutions were limited, including murdering the offending neighbor.

I'm assuming you have drywall and not plaster walls.

You should try the Electrical Outlet Seals first - which might entail cutting a bit of the existing drywall away.
Sound is going to travel via any hole it can find, so that's the first place to deal with.

The solution we all found for non-plaster walls - and (relatively) little expense - was http://www.quietrock.com/

Ideally, it would be great to pull down the sheetrock you have now, put in regular insulation (and/or that expanding foam stuff) and then the Quiet Rock on BOTH sides of the wall, always in conjunction with sealing the outlets using the Quiet Rock Putty.

Putting two sheets on one side does not, apparently, give you double the soundproofing.

But putting Quiet Rock over the existing drywall, using at least 3 tubes of glue per sheet, along with sealing the outlets, and caulking any other holes (on both sides), should dramatically contain the sound.

Generally the expanding foam is done before the drywall is up - that way you be sure you get every single nook and cranny.
However, if it's done after, there would have to lots of holes made to ensure you get full coverage (at least two - mid-point and by the ceiling - between each stud).
I'm not sure that's recommended.
Also, the blown-in insulation will eventually settle so it's not a good option

A drywall guy could easily get this done in an weekend (even including taking down the existing drywall).
It's not as big as mess as you would think.

Then it's just the painting.

And, as was often the case, it can ease the homicidal thoughts about your neighbor.

BellaBoo 11-24-2012 06:45 AM

We changed all our inside doors to solid doors with no gaps under the door. That makes a huge reduction in noise. It's hard to sound proof walls just on one side. The textured foam soundproofing works good but so darn ugly and collects dust like crazy.

CindyA 11-25-2012 01:55 AM

Thanks, everyone! I knew you all would come through for me. We had considered the textured foam, BellaBoo, it's good to know about the dust collection (a deal breaker for me because of allergies), and already have a solid wood door, ordered taller from the manufacturer so there will be no gap underneath. We may eventually end up with the quiet rock.

Noiseynana 11-25-2012 06:30 AM

hehehehe send all the kids outside. hehe

Greenheron 11-25-2012 11:51 AM

Fire retardant/proof materials should be chosen....


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