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Thread: 100% Machine Binding

  1. #11
    Super Member featherweight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjradj
    I love using machine binding. The key for me is to be very accurate with the measuring and sewing of the binding in the first place. If you use a 2 1/4" strip instead of the usual 2 1/2" strip for the binding, I find it gives a nicer finish. Sew all your strips into one long one and then starch it before ironing it in half lengthwise. The starch will make it easier to handle.
    Sew it to the back of the quilt using an accurate 1/4" seam.
    Carefully iron it out first, then fold it over to the front side.
    As you fold it to the front side, place a tiny bead of Elmer's school glue onto the front edge of the quilt before you place the folded edge onto the front. Make sure it covers the stitch line by about 1/8". Then iron it into place. The iron will set the glue and hold the binding in place. Elmer's School glue is basically a thick starch, and will wash out completely with the first wash.
    When topstitching the binding into place, I use my walking foot. Use thread to match your binding in the top and either thread to match your backing or invisible thread in the bobbin.
    Now's the important part. Topstitch the smallest distance from the edge of the binding that you can do without falling off the edge. Use a med. stitch length because if it's too small it will show more.
    I find that if I use the inside edge of my foot, and move the needle to the left a couple of settings, I get the right place. That way I'm using the inside of the foot as a guide and NOT watching the needle.
    Give it a try. Good luck.
    Oh, the usual adage applies. Practise, practise, practise.
    I use this exact method. Only difference is, I use my SID foot and move the needle over 2 marks to the right. Comes out very neat.

  2. #12
    Super Member grammyp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlehud
    I use a decorative stitch. That's the only way it works for me.
    That is what I have started doing too. I much prefer to hand stitch it, but arthritis in my thumbs makes it hard to do much hand sewing.

  3. #13
    Super Member Maride's Avatar
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    I never like it either.

  4. #14
    Junior Member bels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jljack
    I have tried sewing the binding onto the back and pulling it over to the front and sewing along the edge, hoping that it will look OK on the back. It never does. I can't figure it out either.
    LOL! Been there, done that.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Katia's Avatar
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    Could you use Liquid Stitch to glue the binding before sewing?

  6. #16
    Super Member daisey's Avatar
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    I have tried that new technique for machine binding and do not like it either. i have decided to do more of a decorative stitch for my machine binding. I have carpel tunnel so hand stitching is hard for me. By the way i moved from Vermont 3 years ago...I miss it so bad!

  7. #17
    Power Poster Sadiemae's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katia
    Could you use Liquid Stitch to glue the binding before sewing?
    You probably could, but Elmer's glue is starch based so it is about the same thing.

  8. #18
    Super Member lalaland's Avatar
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    I don't like doing binding so I bring it over from the back to the front. These are the best instructions I've ever found for this method and I do this on all my quilts.

    http://www.lorettaalvarado.com/binding.htm

  9. #19
    Super Member cjtinkle's Avatar
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    I sew mine to the front of the quilt, just as you would if you were going to hand sew the back.

    Flip it over, and use Elmer's school glue and a hot iron to glue the backing down... beats pinning! Make sure the binding covers the previous stitch line just a bit.

    Flip it back over to the front, and using an edge stitch foot, I sew in the ditch. On the front, it looks exactly like a hand finished binding would.

    On the back, it's nearly perfect because the glue holds it in place, and I am careful to get the binding just a smidge over the stitch line from the front.

  10. #20
    Super Member plainpat's Avatar
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    Thanks for the guide.Will try this on a small quilt this wk.


    Quote Originally Posted by tjradj
    I love using machine binding. The key for me is to be very accurate with the measuring and sewing of the binding in the first place. If you use a 2 1/4" strip instead of the usual 2 1/2" strip for the binding, I find it gives a nicer finish. Sew all your strips into one long one and then starch it before ironing it in half lengthwise. The starch will make it easier to handle.
    Sew it to the back of the quilt using an accurate 1/4" seam.
    Carefully iron it out first, then fold it over to the front side.
    As you fold it to the front side, place a tiny bead of Elmer's school glue onto the front edge of the quilt before you place the folded edge onto the front. Make sure it covers the stitch line by about 1/8". Then iron it into place. The iron will set the glue and hold the binding in place. Elmer's School glue is basically a thick starch, and will wash out completely with the first wash.
    When topstitching the binding into place, I use my walking foot. Use thread to match your binding in the top and either thread to match your backing or invisible thread in the bobbin.
    Now's the important part. Topstitch the smallest distance from the edge of the binding that you can do without falling off the edge. Use a med. stitch length because if it's too small it will show more.
    I find that if I use the inside edge of my foot, and move the needle to the left a couple of settings, I get the right place. That way I'm using the inside of the foot as a guide and NOT watching the needle.
    Give it a try. Good luck.
    Oh, the usual adage applies. Practise, practise, practise.

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