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Any tips or best advice for a scant 1/4 seam

Any tips or best advice for a scant 1/4 seam

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Old 03-17-2013, 11:11 AM
  #31  
jna
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I use a 3/16 of an inch and find that makes a good scant 1/4. That brings you in a couple of threads from the 1/4 mark, my needle doesn't move left or right, my bigger problem is the hole that is to big for the needle to go into and the company doesn't make a smaller one. I am working on a quilt that has 1 5/8 in squares and the pieces need to be sewn that scant 1/4 of an inch. I would think that by now the quilting industry would make that phrase into a number measurement. I don't know metric but I am going to look into that--jna
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:34 AM
  #32  
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Do modern machines have a screw hole in the bed for attaching a metal seam guide? I have one on any machine I want an exact seam of any width. I think you can still buy the guides - do not waste your money on the magnetic one. It shifted around. The 1/4 foot wasn't consistent for me. I'm sure it was just operator error, but I'll stick with my little metal 'dams'.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:49 AM
  #33  
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I found the most sensible way to think of my seam allowance: Mary Ellen Hopkins' PPM. That PPM (Perfect Personal Measurement) works for me. Is mine 1/4"? Probably pretty close, depending upon which machine I use.

As someone said earlier, I refuse to lose the joy of quilting by obsessing over a scant 1/4".
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:06 PM
  #34  
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[QUOTE=Prism99;5934532]Fortyniner, I am confused by your mention of sizes.

As far as I can figure out, 3 strips of 2-1/4" fabric sewn together with scant 1/4" seam should measure a total of 5-3/4" after sewing two seams.

A more common method is to cut 3 strips 2.5" wide and aim for a measurement of 6.5" exactly after sewing two seams (not 6" because there is an unsewn seam to left and right that add up to .5").

Edit: Regarding your question, you want to *sew* a scant 1/4" seam so that after pressing, the fabric taken up by the seam (including turn-of-cloth) is *exactly* 1/4". If you think about it, we all draw block patterns based on exact *finished* 1/4" seams. In order to achieve the exact finish, we need to sew a "scant" seam to allow for turn-of-cloth and space taken up by the sewing thread.

Prism 99, I see what you mean. I probably just don't remember the exact measurements I used since it was a few weeks ago that I did it, but I directly followed the instructions on sewing together the three pieces and the measurements came out correctly when I moved the needle to the right. The quilters on this board do a wonderful job of providing resources and references and I used either directions from someone on the Board or an on-line reference you guys provided. I have learned all kinds of wonderful information here,which is really helpful, since I haven't taken any classes I also had never heard of leaders and enders until I read it on the QB. You guys are the best.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:23 PM
  #35  
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Here is the test I used. I want to be sure I don't confuse anyone. I copied this from a post on the Board by bearisgray:

Do a test to see where the problem might be:
1) Cut three strips of fabric 2 x 5 inches long
2) Sew them together with 'your' 1/4 inch seam
3) Press
Measure - the unit should measure 5 x 5 inches - and the center strip should measure 1 inch wide
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:25 PM
  #36  
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On my machine I can move my needle so that's how I do it. If your needle doesn't move left or right, painters tape is a great tool for lining up
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:47 PM
  #37  
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I found an awesome product called "Clearly Perfect Angles" made by New Leaf Stitches. It is a vinyl template (no adhesive!) that sticks to your sewing area and gives you lines to sew perfect angles, as well perfect 1/4" seams. I have a (supposed) 1/4" foot, but it's actually slightly larger than 1/4". I'm just now completely my first project wit hthis new tool, a Half Hex pieced quilt, my seams were ALL the same size thanks to this tool and the many pieces, fit together perfectly. I highly recommend it!
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:54 PM
  #38  
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I saw that someone suggested a 1/4" presser foot. You need to specify that it's for quilting. If you don't and you're in the middle of a block, the new ones will be a different size vs the blocks you made with your old presser foot. If the person working at the store says they're the same, THEY ARE NOT!!!! Learned that the hard way. The regular sewing machine employee (in the JoAnn's store husqvarna dept was out and a regular JoAnn's employee was filling in).
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:17 PM
  #39  
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Fortyniner, if you take 1/4" off each side of that 2" strip, wouldn't it then be 1 1/2" wide. 1.75+1.75=1.5=5
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:24 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by irishrose View Post
Do modern machines have a screw hole in the bed for attaching a metal seam guide? I have one on any machine I want an exact seam of any width. I think you can still buy the guides - do not waste your money on the magnetic one. It shifted around. The 1/4 foot wasn't consistent for me. I'm sure it was just operator error, but I'll stick with my little metal 'dams'.
None of my 'modern' machines (vikings & brothers) have this feature. Don't know about the other brands. It's one I really miss from the machine I learned on. I really think it's because the machine bed, where the screw hole was, is now made from plastic.
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