Circles
#1
Does anyone have an easy and accurate method for making and appliqueling circles? I saw a slick way to do it in a magazine a while back. For the life of me I can't remember which magazine it was in. Thanks
#2
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sturbridge, Ma
Posts: 3,992
I use Perfect Shape no melt plastic to press circles. Gets good edges or........Stable Magic which is a pellon like product. You press edges and glue edges down with a washable glue. Both have worked great for me.
#4
I use dishes or glass bowls to make the circles on the wrong side of the circle fabric. I sew right sides together of "circle fabric" to very thin interfacing. Trim with pinking shears close to outside of stitched line. Lift up interfaceing into a tent in the middle of the circle and cut a turning hole. Turn circle right side out and press. Easy turned circle. You can also use fusible web just finger press the edge of the circle before you iron it to the base fabric.
#5
There are different ways to do it... I have been experimenting with different methods I have read/seen, etc
You can cut out a cardboard circle the size of your finished circle..cut fabric...sew a basting stitch all around edge of fabric, put, cardboard, or template in fabric, pull the basting and as you hold it tight press it down...take out cardboard and secure your basting stich...no need to take it out...i only do this for small ones..I find this takes too long but works well...
I have also used freezer paper, starch the edge with a brush and pressed seam allowance to back...take out freezer paper before i sew down..use a Clover craft iron and it is easier...
..now i try just to needleturn as i go...trick is a small seam allowance..1/8 inch if possible..when i first started this seam allowance was too small, as I have improved, it becomes easier to manage the small seams...
You can cut out a cardboard circle the size of your finished circle..cut fabric...sew a basting stitch all around edge of fabric, put, cardboard, or template in fabric, pull the basting and as you hold it tight press it down...take out cardboard and secure your basting stich...no need to take it out...i only do this for small ones..I find this takes too long but works well...
I have also used freezer paper, starch the edge with a brush and pressed seam allowance to back...take out freezer paper before i sew down..use a Clover craft iron and it is easier...
..now i try just to needleturn as i go...trick is a small seam allowance..1/8 inch if possible..when i first started this seam allowance was too small, as I have improved, it becomes easier to manage the small seams...
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 947
I do like Furza described, except using a water soluble stabilizer. It's sturdy enough to give you a good circle shape, but it washes out completely after you've appliqued (either hand or machine), leaving you with a perfectly turned circle.
RST
RST
#7
Search for Eleanor burns on you tube ( I think ). She had a great tutorial. Although, it was not for circles per say. She made circles and then cut then up to make another pattern.
She print a circle on a piece of paper. Then sewed the fabric with fusible interface, and then turned it inside side out.
I wish I would have saved the link.
She print a circle on a piece of paper. Then sewed the fabric with fusible interface, and then turned it inside side out.
I wish I would have saved the link.
#8
I am wondering if the way you saw to do it might have been where you make a template from something like mylar template sheets.
I have done this before - traced the size circle I needed onto the mylar, cut it out, then traced the mylar template onto the fabric. When you cut the fabric, you cut it about 1/4" larger than the template. Do a loose hand basting stitch in the seam allowance you cut on the fabric, and once you get all the way around, place the template inside, and pull the stitching tight. Turn over so the exposed mylar is face down and press. I would use a little spray startch or best press when pressing...remove the mylar template and you should have a perfect circle for appliqueing.
You can also snip a little bit in the seam allowance going right up to just a few threads shy of the line you traced onto the fabric to help your circle turn under better.
I have done this before - traced the size circle I needed onto the mylar, cut it out, then traced the mylar template onto the fabric. When you cut the fabric, you cut it about 1/4" larger than the template. Do a loose hand basting stitch in the seam allowance you cut on the fabric, and once you get all the way around, place the template inside, and pull the stitching tight. Turn over so the exposed mylar is face down and press. I would use a little spray startch or best press when pressing...remove the mylar template and you should have a perfect circle for appliqueing.
You can also snip a little bit in the seam allowance going right up to just a few threads shy of the line you traced onto the fabric to help your circle turn under better.
#9
OH - sorry I just realized tellabella explained virtually the same method - sorry to repeat! But just to add I prefer to use mylar and then a little fabric glue to place my piece to the backing fabric for appliqueing. I have used freezer paper before but it tends to fold when pulling that basting stitch tight so that's why I like the mylar so much. If you spray starch a little it will hold its shape when you remove the template.
#10
Originally Posted by Furza Flyin
I use dishes or glass bowls to make the circles on the wrong side of the circle fabric. I sew right sides together of "circle fabric" to very thin interfacing. Trim with pinking shears close to outside of stitched line. Lift up interfaceing into a tent in the middle of the circle and cut a turning hole. Turn circle right side out and press. Easy turned circle. You can also use fusible web just finger press the edge of the circle before you iron it to the base fabric.
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