Cutting large pieces of fabric
#1
Cutting large pieces of fabric
I'm asking a series of quite basic questions at the moment, just to see what methods and ideas you brilliant quilters come up with. I already have several good new tips.
So - now I'm faced with a 4 metre (over 4 yards) length of fabric, which I need to cut to use as a backing. I'm feeling wary because I recently had problems after finding that I hadn't had some fabric lined up absolutely straight before I cut into it. Sometimes it's difficult to find a straight line as a starting point to match up on the cutting board if the selvedges aren't straight and the fabric hasn't been cut straight when taken off the bolt. And, of course, it's just difficult to work with a long piece of fabric - folding, lining up, cutting.
Any hints or tips?
So - now I'm faced with a 4 metre (over 4 yards) length of fabric, which I need to cut to use as a backing. I'm feeling wary because I recently had problems after finding that I hadn't had some fabric lined up absolutely straight before I cut into it. Sometimes it's difficult to find a straight line as a starting point to match up on the cutting board if the selvedges aren't straight and the fabric hasn't been cut straight when taken off the bolt. And, of course, it's just difficult to work with a long piece of fabric - folding, lining up, cutting.
Any hints or tips?
#2
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,538
The only time I rip fabric is when I need to do long borders. I will rip off the width I need down the whole length but with an inch to spare. After ripping I fold it up and trim the ripped edge off. If I need to cut lengths, I always use my large 15 inch square lined up on the fold to prevent V mistakes in the length.
#4
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,659
I think it is important to follow grainlines - because I think a quilt, blanket, sheet, towel, handkerchief - is easier to fold neatly when it is cut on-grain.
First, I wash and dry the fabric to see what it wants to do "on its own."
Then I look carefully to see what I have for grain lines on the ends.
If I have "extra" - I will tear it to get an on-grain edge. Tearing does cause trauma to the ends. Sometimes the damage can extend several inches into the fabric.
If I have to be careful with what I have available - I will pull a thread - which is tedious - but it does work.
I do remove the selvages from backing material. Most selvages are more tightly woven than the rest of the fabric - and some of them shrink a lot more than the rest of the fabric. So they get cut off.
If only a scant amount of fabric is available - then I suppose you will have to "make do" with what you have.
First, I wash and dry the fabric to see what it wants to do "on its own."
Then I look carefully to see what I have for grain lines on the ends.
If I have "extra" - I will tear it to get an on-grain edge. Tearing does cause trauma to the ends. Sometimes the damage can extend several inches into the fabric.
If I have to be careful with what I have available - I will pull a thread - which is tedious - but it does work.
I do remove the selvages from backing material. Most selvages are more tightly woven than the rest of the fabric - and some of them shrink a lot more than the rest of the fabric. So they get cut off.
If only a scant amount of fabric is available - then I suppose you will have to "make do" with what you have.
#9
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
I don't like to rip fabric, call me weird. For piecing a backing, I just fold it in half and cut it with scissors on the fold line. Since it will be sewn on the selvedge edge, it doesn't matter if the cut is perfectly straight.
Cari
Cari
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post