cutting triangles so there is no bias
11-10-2011, 12:26 AM
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lived in San Diego now retired in Eagar, AZ.
Posts: 887
okay, there are two situations here... one is an HST which is sewn on the bias but then cut apart to make squares with a diagonal seam on the bias and straight of grain on the outside.
the other is when you have a block on point and you need the filler triangles...NOW you want the long leg of the triangle to be on straight of grain....so.... measure the side of the block that the filler triangle will be sewn to.... now multiply by 1.414....that will give you the outside leg of the triangle needed to fill that spot.... so we will take a 10" block on point for an example.... 10" x 1.414 = 11.4"... so to simplify your cutting...you will cut one large square that is 11.5" (just a smidge extra and easier to measure on your ruler)....NOW cut that large square into 4 triangles by drawing an 'X' from corner to corner both ways. you now have 4 filler triangles and all 4 have the straight of grain on the long side (which is the outside for the filler area)... repeat with as many large squares as you need to go around the quilt....
when you get to the corners....they are different...straight of grain needs to be on the 2 shorts sides...so go back to the size of the original square...10"...now you multiply by .717 .... 10" x .717 = 7.17".... cut 2 squares this size (I would round up to 7.25 but mark at the 7.17 to sew correctly) from your filler fabric, cut each square one time from corner to corner....now you have 4 halves but their straight of grain is on the two short sides which become the corners of your filler row... the square is smaller because the bias edge is being sewn to the square and it is longer than the 90 degree sides
...sounds confusing but trust me, follow step by step and it will be fine...here is a pic to show what i'm talking about. all the filler triangles are on the straight on the outside edge so that it is easy to sew on your borders and binding without stretching and ruffling...sorry, the corner triangle is just a tiny pc, but i already had the pic and it wasn't taken to illustrate this technique...
it is not the only time you need these steps, but it is a common one... 1.414 and .717, these are the only two numbers you need to write down somewhere ... one of them will be right for whichever situation when you need a triangle on straight of grain...
just posted and found 'bearisgray's' diagrams and they are nice and clear even tho she was demonstrating a bit differently but you can see the edges i was talking about in her diagrams... thanks bearisgray....
the other is when you have a block on point and you need the filler triangles...NOW you want the long leg of the triangle to be on straight of grain....so.... measure the side of the block that the filler triangle will be sewn to.... now multiply by 1.414....that will give you the outside leg of the triangle needed to fill that spot.... so we will take a 10" block on point for an example.... 10" x 1.414 = 11.4"... so to simplify your cutting...you will cut one large square that is 11.5" (just a smidge extra and easier to measure on your ruler)....NOW cut that large square into 4 triangles by drawing an 'X' from corner to corner both ways. you now have 4 filler triangles and all 4 have the straight of grain on the long side (which is the outside for the filler area)... repeat with as many large squares as you need to go around the quilt....
when you get to the corners....they are different...straight of grain needs to be on the 2 shorts sides...so go back to the size of the original square...10"...now you multiply by .717 .... 10" x .717 = 7.17".... cut 2 squares this size (I would round up to 7.25 but mark at the 7.17 to sew correctly) from your filler fabric, cut each square one time from corner to corner....now you have 4 halves but their straight of grain is on the two short sides which become the corners of your filler row... the square is smaller because the bias edge is being sewn to the square and it is longer than the 90 degree sides
...sounds confusing but trust me, follow step by step and it will be fine...here is a pic to show what i'm talking about. all the filler triangles are on the straight on the outside edge so that it is easy to sew on your borders and binding without stretching and ruffling...sorry, the corner triangle is just a tiny pc, but i already had the pic and it wasn't taken to illustrate this technique...
it is not the only time you need these steps, but it is a common one... 1.414 and .717, these are the only two numbers you need to write down somewhere ... one of them will be right for whichever situation when you need a triangle on straight of grain...
just posted and found 'bearisgray's' diagrams and they are nice and clear even tho she was demonstrating a bit differently but you can see the edges i was talking about in her diagrams... thanks bearisgray....
Last edited by deemail; 11-10-2011 at 12:33 AM.
11-10-2011, 12:28 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,202
11-10-2011, 12:28 AM
#13
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,407
Squares in a Square
Pretend the blue lines of the graph paper are the way the threads are woven (grain lines)
If I was going to make a block like this, and wanted all the grain lines to be perpendicular to each other, these are the triangles I would use.
I've found that the finished block presses out better when I cut the pieces like this.
Of course, if the center square has a motif that I want to fussy cut for a certain effect, I would do that! Or any of the other components, for that matter.
Yes, usually I would start with the center square cut on the bias.
I would also probably use the strip cutting method instead of cutting the squares diagonally.
If I was going to make a block like this, and wanted all the grain lines to be perpendicular to each other, these are the triangles I would use.
I've found that the finished block presses out better when I cut the pieces like this.
Of course, if the center square has a motif that I want to fussy cut for a certain effect, I would do that! Or any of the other components, for that matter.
Yes, usually I would start with the center square cut on the bias.
I would also probably use the strip cutting method instead of cutting the squares diagonally.
11-10-2011, 05:50 AM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Clay Springs AZ
Posts: 3,229
If you cut 2 large squares right sides togather, use 6 in sqs for 2 1/2 in triangles and 8 in for 3 1/2 in triangles.
Draw lines from corner to corner both ways and sew 1/4 in down each side of lines- looks like an x.
Then cut the block in half both ways then on the lines. You will have 8 triangles and they are not on the bias.
Your triangles will need to be squared up slightly using Quilt in a Days square up ruler which only requires ONE cut.
The way some do it by sewing around the outside of the block all your triangles will be on the bias.
Draw lines from corner to corner both ways and sew 1/4 in down each side of lines- looks like an x.
Then cut the block in half both ways then on the lines. You will have 8 triangles and they are not on the bias.
Your triangles will need to be squared up slightly using Quilt in a Days square up ruler which only requires ONE cut.
The way some do it by sewing around the outside of the block all your triangles will be on the bias.
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