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Old 05-25-2016, 03:51 AM
  #21  
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Sounds like you're on the right path. I agree that you need to doodle... a lot... to develop muscle memory. You need to be able to 'see' where your design will go next. I've been FMQ for about 6 years. I was too stubborn to buy the white machingers gloves, thinking they were too expensive, so I wore out a pair of F&P from JAF and then went to rubber coated garden gloves. I recently broke down and spent the $9 on a pair of machingers. Let's just say there's a reason so many quilting teachers wear them... They are wonderful.

The supreme slider really makes a difference, but I find things move more easily when I make a conscious effort not to press down when I'm quilting. A light touch is much more effective for moving the quilt. When I'm tense, I find I'm pushing down too much and it's harder to move the quilt smoothly.

One final note... the size of your practice sandwich... I find it hard to get smooth designs when the sandwich is too small. My preferred size is about the size of a fat quarter. It's hard to move smoothly when it's any smaller. When I teach FMQ, the shop provides the practice sandwiches for class, but they are about 12" square. Very difficult to get much real practice on anything that small. The center 6 inches go smoothly, but the outer 3 inches all around are difficult.
I try to use the same color top and bottom, and the same weight of thread. It helps minimize tension issues, and the little bits of bobbin thread showing on top. Also remember that small dots will likely disappear when you wash your quilt.
Good luck and keep trying. Moving onto a utilitarian quilt will boost your confidence. Each quilt is a snapshot of what you're capable of at the time. Keep quilting and move on. You can only get so far on practice sandwiches.
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:09 AM
  #22  
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I FMQ with the feed dogs down and sometimes do an actual grasp of the quilt on both sides. My biggest problem is when I really get going sometimes the quilt catches on the end of the machine extension. I have to be sure a large area is free and watch as the quilt moves toward the needle.
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:24 AM
  #23  
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I found that FMQ on the frame is different from FMQ on the domestic machine. In my case, I learned keeping the tension on the loose side is best due to the speed ...my machine does something over 1500 stitches per minute, which puts strain on the thread. The video by Jamie Wallen (hope the spelling is right) has been a big help...he shows how to determine the correction tension in the bobbin (since we use threads of different weights) and then adjust the top tension accordingly.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:31 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Bree123 View Post
1. Tension at 0, feed dogs down/covered
2. Machine bed flush with tabletop
3. Supreme Slider
4. Machingers
5. Quilt Suspenders
6. Crayola Ultra Clean markers to mark design on quilt top before layers
7. New Sharp Needle with every quilt, size 80 Quilting/Microtex
8. Aurifil thread
9. Sketch out stitch path on paper first to build visual memory
10. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE
Bree has itemized some very good information..

Check out this page, this is how I started on advice of another quilter instructor, didn't take long until you have mastered your quilting, and practice doodling on paper - I found the hardest thing was quickly thinking of the next direction to go...

https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q...&q=mctavishing

Look at the tutorials on the following -(she starts at the beginning of our sewing then where to go next - right to the end) "https://www.theinboxjaunt.com"

Last edited by d.rickman; 05-25-2016 at 05:33 AM.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:36 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DawnFurlong View Post
I agree about the slider and gloves. I actually bought a non-stick oven liner from Wal-Mart. I had to make a cut out for my needle and add some grips to the back (I used that puffy shelf liner, but in strips, and attached to the back). Made a big difference for me! My makeshift slider can wander some, so thinking about getting the actual slider since it has the tacky back. I feel like I finally have some semblance of control, so trying to branch out from meandering. Time/practice really does make a difference as well.

A couple pieces of scotch tape will hold that liner in place and comes right off both machine and liner.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:57 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by DawnFurlong View Post
Leah Day swears by leaving the feed dogs up and setting the stitch length to 0. She indicates she has no tension issues that way. I tried it on my machine, works perfectly. And I don't have to change my tension to go back and forth from piecing to FMQing.
This is something that works for some machines and not others. I have three Brother machines and they all work best at FMQ with the Feed dogs Down.

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Old 05-25-2016, 07:31 AM
  #27  
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The key is "muscle memory". It takes at least 8 hours spread out over time to master FMQ. Don't give up!
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:32 AM
  #28  
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Do you mean Rob Appell of Man Sewing. I watch him whenever he has a new video and have learned a lot. Jenny Doan of MSQC has some FMQ also.
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:42 AM
  #29  
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I have no advice, as I am also teaching myself to free motion, all I can say, is hang in there. I did a couple of samples, 12 inch to fat quarter size, then I started on a table cloth. That way, I always have proof of my progress, and it is my table cloth. I will use it and will be able to how much I have progressed. I suppose, it is probably 86 or so by 72 or so. That way I know how a full quilt will handle under the machine. It seems that I always break the rules, I even used variegated thread, which I have heard is a big no no, when learning. But I think my table cloth turned out pretty awesome. My husband and family like and I am proud of it. I have never figured out how to post pictures, or I would post on here. Just keep trying and be proud of yourself. I know you can do it.
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:44 AM
  #30  
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>>>>[COLOR=#362F2D]My preferred size is about the size of a fat quarter. It's hard to move smoothly when it's any smaller.
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