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Thread: Have you tried the fusible batting?

  1. #21
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    Hobbs 80/20 is quite flat when ironed and quilted much like any other 80/20 batt. It does puff up a little when the quilt is washed which removes the fusible. If you are looking for a puffy quilt, I think Hobbs polydown would be a better choice.

  2. #22
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    I always used the 505 spray and really like it. So much better than pin basting. I do not notice a strong smell with it. Have not tried the fusible but it would be great for smaller projects I think. Something I do want to try is the elmers glue though. Love reading others opinions on products here, sometimes a product is pricey and opinions of others certainly helps me make my decision.

  3. #23
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    I love fusible batting and use the Hobbs 80/20 all the time. I find it easy to use, to reposition and even to use doubled (for a thicker quilt). I have never tried glue basting, since the fusible is good for all the sizes I make.
    Maggie in Jerusalem
    http://www.etsy.com/shop/maggiemwdesigns

  4. #24
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    I tried fusible batting /Hobbs 80/20 on a large quilt and found that it was trick to iron and get smooth. I use 505 spray basting and Hobbs 80/20 batting on large quilts and find that it is easy to use and makes the quilts sotf and a really nice weight that I like. I might try fusible on walling hangings / table runner or baby quilts. Try it on a small item or 1 time on a large quilt and see if you like it.

  5. #25
    Super Member thepolyparrot's Avatar
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    I love the Hobbs fusible batting, especially for smaller projects which will fit on my pressing table.

    For larger quilts, I get out the 8' square makeshift basting table, which puts the work surface about waist high on me. I layer the backing, batt and top like usual, just in case I get some spots where the back side of the fusible melts, it'll be fusing to the backing instead of to the plywood sheets.

    After I've fused the top, I flip it over and smooth it out and fuse the backing. Then I usually put it right side up again and bring the backing around to the front and pin it all around to the edge of the quilt top. It keeps me from sewing too close to the edge of the quilt and it protects the layers from coming unstuck around the outside.

    I wish they made the fusible in the giant 120" square size that the regular King batt comes in - for the King quilts, I usually end up cutting strips off of a second batt to do the borders.

    I try to always stock up on these when they're on sale at Connecting Threads.

  6. #26
    Super Member Sierra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tezell0801 View Post
    So it is only fusible on one side? hummm, I will try it for some placemats I intend to make and see from there.
    You can get it one sided or two sided fusible. I use it all the time. Smooth it out, give it some time to relax, put your fabric on it and, starting from the center, smooth it with your hands until it is wrinkle free. I pin every foot or 18" to make sure I can't shift the quilt fabric. The adhesive is slightly scratchy and tends to stay where you put it. Now time for dry heat pressing (always starting with the center). Usually I start with only doing the center square yard or so and then resmooth it with my hands and then do a foot around that. It depends on how relaxed the fabric is; sometimes I press the really hard-to-deal with fabric (top or backing) before putting it onto the fusible batting. When the back is done (I always do it first) I do the same process with the front (smooth, pin a few pins, iron with dry heat). Don't press longer than the instructions tell you or it will be hard to reposition, should you find a wrinkle.

    I turn it over and check the back side again, but it rarely (anymore) has a wrinkle (thanks to all that smoothing, which by the way, feels downright theraputic to my fabric loving soul!) When both sides pass my personal quilt police criteria I iron with steam. Using only heat can be unironed by simply reironing and running your hand under that area and lift the fabric free (you have to wait a pinch to let the extreme heat to disapate so you don't burn your hands) and then reposition and reiron. Once you use steam it can be removed using steam again, but it is harder and some of the adhesive gets lost. Follow the directions for how close you need to quilt. It varies, just like different regular battings do.

    I never intend to buy regular batting again. If I need it for something specific I still have plenty left. I have used cheaper and like it fine. I quilt pretty constantly and fusible saves me a huge amount of effort and time, w/o costing me any lots of time and effort to get the sandwich together. I refuse to use sprays that have as many warnings on them as quilt sprays do! Our earth doesn't need it either.

  7. #27
    Super Member mjsylvstr's Avatar
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    I love it....I have used it on mini mug rugs to doing good sized lap quilts.( don't do large quilts anymore) and I wouldn't use anything different now.

    I buy Hobbs through the Connecting Thread when they have it on sale, usually at 30% off....can't beat the bargain.

  8. #28
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    I used it when I was first quilting things with my home machine. It helped me focus on the quilting rather than moving around with pins.

  9. #29
    Senior Member ghquilter53's Avatar
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    I don't remember the brand I used but I didn't like it. It didn't hold the fabric in place for me. I like the basting spray for up to lapsize quilts and have to turn the quilt over before quilting to make sure everything is smooth on the back as well.

  10. #30
    Super Member coopah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quiltjoey View Post
    Have used both but prefer spray. It's not the best for people with breathing problems and should be used in a well-ventilated area...
    And also a mask that covers your nose and mouth...please. No matter what the label says, do everything you can to protect your airways.
    "A woman is like a tea bag-you can't tell how strong she is until you put her in hot water." Eleanor Roosevelt

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