HELP! Need help sewing flannel!!!
04-12-2011, 10:44 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 560
Originally Posted by Wunder-Mar
So, Experienced Flannel Quilters, I would welcome any and all tips to help me match seams more easily and anything else I might not have thought of to do/not do while sewing with flannel. Many, many thanks for whatever help you can lend!
04-12-2011, 04:45 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Wales, FL, USA
Posts: 1,554
Originally Posted by moonwork42029
Oh my... I thought the starch on the flannel would ruin it... gosh, I'll have to try it when I do the quilting part.
Thanks!
Thanks!
The good, heavy, "quilter's suede" type flannel is a little easier to control without starch but the intersections at the seams make it a bugger to sew through even with a walking foot and nesting the seams so I have pressed them open.
I also avoid using any pattern where the pieces will be less than 2" when using flannel if I can't figure out how to strip piece it and sub-cut to get the design I'm after.
04-12-2011, 07:39 PM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,061
Please prewash all flannels. They do not all shrink at the same rate and you can end up with a real mess after all your work. I think flannel is as easy to work with as cotton, just sew a good quarter inch seam as some do want to ravel.
04-13-2011, 05:32 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 663
I followed Prism99 instructions to the tee for making my DD flannel quilt (my second quilt) using 3 colors of flannel on both the front and back and pressing seams open. I had absolutely no problems with the seams matching up. Thank you Prism99. Jinnie
Originally Posted by Prism99
Heavily starching flannel before cutting really helps. I mix up a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" this on the fabric using a large wall painting brush (until the fabric is saturated), toss in the dryer, then iron with steam. The flannel comes out with the stiffness of lightweight cardstock and is *not* going to wiggle around or distort on you while cutting and piecing. It makes piecing flannel a lot easier, and also helps prevent puckers when machine quilting (heavily starch the backing fabric also). After the quilt is bound, wash in the washing machine to remove the starch.
Edit: Oops! Sorry, I just noticed the comment about a ton of 2.5" squares. If they were prewashed, then you might be able to use a similar technique to the above but lay them flat on toweling to dry before ironing. If they haven't been prewashed, then starching them may result in serious shrinkage and distortion of the squares -- in which case you would be better off just using them as is, or possibly you could experiment with spray starching a few. (Spray starching is a much slower process than the yardage technique above.)
Edit: Oops! Sorry, I just noticed the comment about a ton of 2.5" squares. If they were prewashed, then you might be able to use a similar technique to the above but lay them flat on toweling to dry before ironing. If they haven't been prewashed, then starching them may result in serious shrinkage and distortion of the squares -- in which case you would be better off just using them as is, or possibly you could experiment with spray starching a few. (Spray starching is a much slower process than the yardage technique above.)
04-13-2011, 06:27 AM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DeLand, F
Posts: 234
Try ironing all your 2.5 sq. to the fusible foundation that's made with the grid, they shouldn't move then. Joann's sells this & there is probably an internet site, but I can't think of the name of the product, good luck! You may also try easing up the pressure dial on your machine.
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