My Foolproof way to baste a quilt
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada; Florida in the winter
Posts: 721
My Foolproof way to baste a quilt
I have read so many of your threads about basting a quilt, and I figured it was time for me to throw my hat in the ring (or should I say "my quilt in the ring"?) LOL
Anyway, my DH took pieces of 1" x 2" spruce and built a large frame to attach to the wall (6 foot by 7 1/2 feet) in my sewing room. The corners of the frame don't have to attach to each other since it will be attached to the wall - nothing fancy! As he was attaching the wood to the wall, I covered this frame with W & N batting so that the surface of my design wall is the full 6 foot by 7 1/2 feet. (Behind the batting is the wall!) He didn't put a frame along the baseboard - the batting is free there, and gravity holds it down. So in other words, the frame is three sided, and open at the bottom. I use it as my design board.
BUT when it is time to baste a quilt, that's when my knees and back thank me!!! I put the batting on the design wall. Then I take my piece of precut backing outside and lay it on an old sheet on my front porch and sparingly spray baste it with 505. I fold it into quarters, with the sticky side in and come inside to my design board. Then I open it up, and carefully lay it against the batting on the design wall, smoothing it carefully until it is flat. I then take these two "basted" layers to my ironing table, and iron them together from the backing side. This helps to activate the 505 and finalize the basting process of these two layers. Then I put these two layers back onto the design wall, with the batting side towards me.
I then take my quilt top outside, and spray the wrong side with 505 in the same way I did my backing, folding it in, in quarters, to carry it inside. No muss, no fuss, no getting on your knees, or spraying in the house. Then I carefully smooth the top onto the batting, again on my design wall, very comfortably, with no aches or pains or sore knees, from the centre out. I then press these 3 layers on my ironing table. It's ready to go! I then ditch it (stitch in the ditch), usually with invisible thread on the top and thread to match the backing in the bobbin (unless it's for a baby or child - then I don't use any invisible thread at all) and even go around the periphery of the quilt. Then I can free motion all the different sections with quilting thread (not invisible) at my leisure. Works for me! Would love to get your feedback!
P.S. Sometimes with the weight of the fabric I have to put pins at the top corners when it is on my design board so that it doesn't peel off onto the floor. But that doesn't interfere with the whole basting process in any way. I never mind basting a quilt!!!
Anyway, my DH took pieces of 1" x 2" spruce and built a large frame to attach to the wall (6 foot by 7 1/2 feet) in my sewing room. The corners of the frame don't have to attach to each other since it will be attached to the wall - nothing fancy! As he was attaching the wood to the wall, I covered this frame with W & N batting so that the surface of my design wall is the full 6 foot by 7 1/2 feet. (Behind the batting is the wall!) He didn't put a frame along the baseboard - the batting is free there, and gravity holds it down. So in other words, the frame is three sided, and open at the bottom. I use it as my design board.
BUT when it is time to baste a quilt, that's when my knees and back thank me!!! I put the batting on the design wall. Then I take my piece of precut backing outside and lay it on an old sheet on my front porch and sparingly spray baste it with 505. I fold it into quarters, with the sticky side in and come inside to my design board. Then I open it up, and carefully lay it against the batting on the design wall, smoothing it carefully until it is flat. I then take these two "basted" layers to my ironing table, and iron them together from the backing side. This helps to activate the 505 and finalize the basting process of these two layers. Then I put these two layers back onto the design wall, with the batting side towards me.
I then take my quilt top outside, and spray the wrong side with 505 in the same way I did my backing, folding it in, in quarters, to carry it inside. No muss, no fuss, no getting on your knees, or spraying in the house. Then I carefully smooth the top onto the batting, again on my design wall, very comfortably, with no aches or pains or sore knees, from the centre out. I then press these 3 layers on my ironing table. It's ready to go! I then ditch it (stitch in the ditch), usually with invisible thread on the top and thread to match the backing in the bobbin (unless it's for a baby or child - then I don't use any invisible thread at all) and even go around the periphery of the quilt. Then I can free motion all the different sections with quilting thread (not invisible) at my leisure. Works for me! Would love to get your feedback!
P.S. Sometimes with the weight of the fabric I have to put pins at the top corners when it is on my design board so that it doesn't peel off onto the floor. But that doesn't interfere with the whole basting process in any way. I never mind basting a quilt!!!
#2
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,131
I am delighted that you found a way to use two different functions into one piece of equipment. I could NOT live without a functioning design wall. It is so much easier to spot mistakes when the quilt pieces are attached to the wall. Enjoy your new invention. Maybe it will give someone else a brilliant idea.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada; Florida in the winter
Posts: 721
#8
A slight digression from the op about basting process but whilst the topic of design walls was incorporated in the topic..........
my DH screwed a long piece of U shaped metal channel at one end to the top of the old bookcase in my sewing room so that the main length of the rod sticks out along the wall. I then use bulldog clips to clip a double bed blanket to the U lip of the rod so that it hangs down to the ground and there you go...I have a design wall. Blanket can be quickly unclipped and folded away when I don't need it and the length of metal channel is up so high it isn't in the way of anything.
my DH screwed a long piece of U shaped metal channel at one end to the top of the old bookcase in my sewing room so that the main length of the rod sticks out along the wall. I then use bulldog clips to clip a double bed blanket to the U lip of the rod so that it hangs down to the ground and there you go...I have a design wall. Blanket can be quickly unclipped and folded away when I don't need it and the length of metal channel is up so high it isn't in the way of anything.
Last edited by ruby2shoes; 10-29-2015 at 11:22 AM. Reason: spelling
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