I wil never get it right
#13
Tapper ...
First of all .. don't fret. The important part is that all seams are CONSISTENT ... not that they are all 1/4". Also with regard to swaps ... I've been in two boomerang groups and I know I've both sent and received blocks that were a smidge off (less than 1/8"). So if you can stay within this boundary ... life is good!!
Second ... have you tried using one of the old fashioned seam guides that clamps to your machine?? Looks like this ...
http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2010/...questions.html
Most of the older vintage machines came with them, and many of the modern machines are shipped with them as well (My Janome 6600 has one). This seam guide is great because it gives you all kinds of "lead in" room to guide your fabric before it gets to the needle. Note that you will probably have to fiddle around first to get the right placement combined with the right needle position (for my machine I scoot the guide all the way up to the presser foot and move my needle to the right several stops). I absolutely LOVE this guide for piecing small pieces (1" wide and less). Of course you need to make sure your machine has a screw hole to accommodate this gadget.
When you are testing your 1/4" seam accuracy ... if you run a test and find you need to adjust *something* (measuringcutting, thread, needle placement, guide placement) ... make ONLY one of the adjustments. Keep notes on what works and what doesn't work.
First of all .. don't fret. The important part is that all seams are CONSISTENT ... not that they are all 1/4". Also with regard to swaps ... I've been in two boomerang groups and I know I've both sent and received blocks that were a smidge off (less than 1/8"). So if you can stay within this boundary ... life is good!!
Second ... have you tried using one of the old fashioned seam guides that clamps to your machine?? Looks like this ...
http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2010/...questions.html
Most of the older vintage machines came with them, and many of the modern machines are shipped with them as well (My Janome 6600 has one). This seam guide is great because it gives you all kinds of "lead in" room to guide your fabric before it gets to the needle. Note that you will probably have to fiddle around first to get the right placement combined with the right needle position (for my machine I scoot the guide all the way up to the presser foot and move my needle to the right several stops). I absolutely LOVE this guide for piecing small pieces (1" wide and less). Of course you need to make sure your machine has a screw hole to accommodate this gadget.
When you are testing your 1/4" seam accuracy ... if you run a test and find you need to adjust *something* (measuringcutting, thread, needle placement, guide placement) ... make ONLY one of the adjustments. Keep notes on what works and what doesn't work.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 757
Tapper ...
First of all .. don't fret. The important part is that all seams are CONSISTENT ... not that they are all 1/4". Also with regard to swaps ... I've been in two boomerang groups and I know I've both sent and received blocks that were a smidge off (less than 1/8"). So if you can stay within this boundary ... life is good!!
Second ... have you tried using one of the old fashioned seam guides that clamps to your machine?? Looks like this ...
http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2010/...questions.html
Most of the older vintage machines came with them, and many of the modern machines are shipped with them as well (My Janome 6600 has one). This seam guide is great because it gives you all kinds of "lead in" room to guide your fabric before it gets to the needle. Note that you will probably have to fiddle around first to get the right placement combined with the right needle position (for my machine I scoot the guide all the way up to the presser foot and move my needle to the right several stops). I absolutely LOVE this guide for piecing small pieces (1" wide and less). Of course you need to make sure your machine has a screw hole to accommodate this gadget.
When you are testing your 1/4" seam accuracy ... if you run a test and find you need to adjust *something* (measuringcutting, thread, needle placement, guide placement) ... make ONLY one of the adjustments. Keep notes on what works and what doesn't work.
First of all .. don't fret. The important part is that all seams are CONSISTENT ... not that they are all 1/4". Also with regard to swaps ... I've been in two boomerang groups and I know I've both sent and received blocks that were a smidge off (less than 1/8"). So if you can stay within this boundary ... life is good!!
Second ... have you tried using one of the old fashioned seam guides that clamps to your machine?? Looks like this ...
http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2010/...questions.html
Most of the older vintage machines came with them, and many of the modern machines are shipped with them as well (My Janome 6600 has one). This seam guide is great because it gives you all kinds of "lead in" room to guide your fabric before it gets to the needle. Note that you will probably have to fiddle around first to get the right placement combined with the right needle position (for my machine I scoot the guide all the way up to the presser foot and move my needle to the right several stops). I absolutely LOVE this guide for piecing small pieces (1" wide and less). Of course you need to make sure your machine has a screw hole to accommodate this gadget.
When you are testing your 1/4" seam accuracy ... if you run a test and find you need to adjust *something* (measuringcutting, thread, needle placement, guide placement) ... make ONLY one of the adjustments. Keep notes on what works and what doesn't work.
I do make only one adjustment at a time and keep written notes.
That seam guide looks like a handy-dandy gadget to have. I will have to check into that. I do find that my stitching/fabric wavers sometimes and that is a problem. My machine has a screw on plate so maybe this gadget will help.
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 5,570
Here's my 2 cents. First, I agree that consistency is the most important part. And it may not be your sewing that is off, but your cutting. Use the same ruler to measure your needle distance/seam allowance on the bed of your machine as you do for cutting - or at least the same brand ruler if you have a smaller ruler of the same brand. Believe it or not, not all rulers are created equal.
I also do not prefer the 1/4" foot with the lip. I found it was a bit more than a full 1/4" and the lip did nothing to help me line up fabric. With my machine, a specific needle position along with a particular foot will give me a 'scant' 1/4 measurement.
For starching...I have switched to the liquid Sta-Flo. I can mix up what I need, in whatever strength, as I need it. I usually do a 50/50 mix. I use a cheap plastic spray bottle so it's not like an aerosol can that has a lot of over spray as it has an adjustable nozzle. I use it for both yardage and small pieces. Spray the fabric - regardless of size - and let the starch (regardless of brand/type used) absorb into the fabric. Then iron/press. This prevents the 'flaking' most associated with starching.
I also press as I go when constructing a block. I use steam. Sometimes it creates an issue; sometimes it resolves one! I press the seam as its sewn to 'set' the seam and then I normally press my seams open which reduces alot of the bulk and for me, makes matching seams/points more accurate.
Hope some of these suggestions help you. And beyond that - just have fun and enjoy the process. That's what it's about - not perfection.
I also do not prefer the 1/4" foot with the lip. I found it was a bit more than a full 1/4" and the lip did nothing to help me line up fabric. With my machine, a specific needle position along with a particular foot will give me a 'scant' 1/4 measurement.
For starching...I have switched to the liquid Sta-Flo. I can mix up what I need, in whatever strength, as I need it. I usually do a 50/50 mix. I use a cheap plastic spray bottle so it's not like an aerosol can that has a lot of over spray as it has an adjustable nozzle. I use it for both yardage and small pieces. Spray the fabric - regardless of size - and let the starch (regardless of brand/type used) absorb into the fabric. Then iron/press. This prevents the 'flaking' most associated with starching.
I also press as I go when constructing a block. I use steam. Sometimes it creates an issue; sometimes it resolves one! I press the seam as its sewn to 'set' the seam and then I normally press my seams open which reduces alot of the bulk and for me, makes matching seams/points more accurate.
Hope some of these suggestions help you. And beyond that - just have fun and enjoy the process. That's what it's about - not perfection.
#17
Please keep trying and participate in the exchanges. None of us started our or have achieved perfection all the time.
For your questions about starching, do it prior to cutting. I use Sta Flo like NJ quilter. If I have yardage to do and I am know I am going to use most of it. I mix it up in a bucket and just put all my fabric in until saturated. I let it wring out and hang up to dry before I press it. From my experience if it is still wet/damp when I press it, I can cause the fabric to distort.
Hang in there, I have all the same issue too but slowly but surely trying to get better.
For your questions about starching, do it prior to cutting. I use Sta Flo like NJ quilter. If I have yardage to do and I am know I am going to use most of it. I mix it up in a bucket and just put all my fabric in until saturated. I let it wring out and hang up to dry before I press it. From my experience if it is still wet/damp when I press it, I can cause the fabric to distort.
Hang in there, I have all the same issue too but slowly but surely trying to get better.
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alturas, CA
Posts: 9,393
tapper-I use the Sta-Flo concentrated liquid starch and mix it 50/50 in a spray bottle. I spray starch each fabric that I'll be working with that day at least TWO HOURS before I'm going to be using it, in the meanwhile, the starched fabric is in a plastic bag, after the minimum time mentioned, I'll either take it out of the bag and either let it air dry or stick it in the drier for a few minutes, if you do it this way, there's generally no residue mess on the iron, because you're ironing the FABRIC and NOT the starch. I do small pieces and large pieces. I'm not sure what you mean by keeping the starch off other items, unless you're talking about whatever you're spraying the fabric. If you have the table space and a large paint brush, you can BRUSH the starch on, but off course it will have to be a laminate table/counter or the like. I would like to try the brushing, but my cutting table usually isn't cleared off enough to lay fabric on, so will have to stick to spraying.
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