Inexpensive Sewing Table - Instructions and Photos
10-27-2011, 06:47 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 35
I have checked out the various lines of sewing cabinets and cutting tables and I thought they were rather expensive.
So I designed and started building some very inexpensive sewing cabinets and work tables. They may not look as fancy as those in the stores, but they are much cheaper and just as functional.
Sorry if this is long, but I tried to include all the instructions for building these tables. Hope it helps some of you.
You can also build work/cutting table using this process, just get larger pieces of MDF for the tops and shelves.
It is much nicer sewing with your machine sunken into a flat table top.
Below are a few photos that may give you some ideas and if you or your spouse is at all handy with woodworking tools you may want to try building some of these.
The 3 main materials I use are:
½” MDF board for the tops – for the smaller tables I buy the 2’x4’ precut pieces at Home Depot for $8.96.
2”x2” lumber for the legs. I actually use 2”x4” and rip to 2”x2” on a table saw.
1”x5” or 1”x6” for the sides and center support for the machine.
You can make the tables as long as you like, up to 48”. I usually make mine 40”.
To make the top make a template to outline the contour of your machine to cut an opening in the MDF board that will fit your machine. If your machine has a plastic extension table that is a good start for a template. I found I have to extend the cutout in the MDF about 6” larger than the machine (on the right side of the opening). This allows you to set the machine in the opening and then slide it to the left to fit the contoured opening.
You will also need to either rout or sand the edges to a smooth rounded shape, primarily on the left front, side and back, where you want the fabric to slide easily.
I also put 2 coats of clear shellac on the surface of the MDF to make if slicker for the fabric to slide.
I then start on the frame. I first cut 4 2”x2” boards for the legs 29” long. You can sand them it you would like to smooth them up to stain and varnish.
I then cut the 1”x5” or 1”x6” boards for the side rails. Be sure to allow for some overhang of the top. I always allow a 1” overhang on all sides.
And also consider the 1 ½’ legs on each end of the sides.
Example: Top is 24”x 40”, then front side rail = 40”- 2” overhang(each end) – 3” (for 2 legs) = cut front and back rails to 35”. Side rails = 24” – 2” – 3” = cut side rails to 19”
Now assemble the frame. Mount legs to rails. Various methods, pocket screws, drill legs and use long drywall screws, buy corner brackets and screw together. Whichever is easiest for you. I also glue the ends of the rails to the legs.
Next step is to screw a 1”x 6” board across the bottom, running from the left end rail to the right end rail. This is to support the sewing machine in the table. To locate the place to install the bottom support, temporarily place the MDF top on the table were it will be permanently mounted. Mark and mount the bottom support 1” x 6” directly below the opening in the top MDF board.
Once the lower support is mounted you can install (screw) the MDF top to the frame. Note you will most likely have to use 1 or 2 small pieces of 1/4” plywood to raise the machine to the proper height to be flush with the top.
So I designed and started building some very inexpensive sewing cabinets and work tables. They may not look as fancy as those in the stores, but they are much cheaper and just as functional.
Sorry if this is long, but I tried to include all the instructions for building these tables. Hope it helps some of you.
You can also build work/cutting table using this process, just get larger pieces of MDF for the tops and shelves.
It is much nicer sewing with your machine sunken into a flat table top.
Below are a few photos that may give you some ideas and if you or your spouse is at all handy with woodworking tools you may want to try building some of these.
The 3 main materials I use are:
½” MDF board for the tops – for the smaller tables I buy the 2’x4’ precut pieces at Home Depot for $8.96.
2”x2” lumber for the legs. I actually use 2”x4” and rip to 2”x2” on a table saw.
1”x5” or 1”x6” for the sides and center support for the machine.
You can make the tables as long as you like, up to 48”. I usually make mine 40”.
To make the top make a template to outline the contour of your machine to cut an opening in the MDF board that will fit your machine. If your machine has a plastic extension table that is a good start for a template. I found I have to extend the cutout in the MDF about 6” larger than the machine (on the right side of the opening). This allows you to set the machine in the opening and then slide it to the left to fit the contoured opening.
You will also need to either rout or sand the edges to a smooth rounded shape, primarily on the left front, side and back, where you want the fabric to slide easily.
I also put 2 coats of clear shellac on the surface of the MDF to make if slicker for the fabric to slide.
I then start on the frame. I first cut 4 2”x2” boards for the legs 29” long. You can sand them it you would like to smooth them up to stain and varnish.
I then cut the 1”x5” or 1”x6” boards for the side rails. Be sure to allow for some overhang of the top. I always allow a 1” overhang on all sides.
And also consider the 1 ½’ legs on each end of the sides.
Example: Top is 24”x 40”, then front side rail = 40”- 2” overhang(each end) – 3” (for 2 legs) = cut front and back rails to 35”. Side rails = 24” – 2” – 3” = cut side rails to 19”
Now assemble the frame. Mount legs to rails. Various methods, pocket screws, drill legs and use long drywall screws, buy corner brackets and screw together. Whichever is easiest for you. I also glue the ends of the rails to the legs.
Next step is to screw a 1”x 6” board across the bottom, running from the left end rail to the right end rail. This is to support the sewing machine in the table. To locate the place to install the bottom support, temporarily place the MDF top on the table were it will be permanently mounted. Mark and mount the bottom support 1” x 6” directly below the opening in the top MDF board.
Once the lower support is mounted you can install (screw) the MDF top to the frame. Note you will most likely have to use 1 or 2 small pieces of 1/4” plywood to raise the machine to the proper height to be flush with the top.
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