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Thread: Measuring for binding?

  1. #1
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    I know how to measure by getting the dimensions of the center of the quilt horizontally and vertically. I can apply the binding to the horizontal sides and then to the vertical sides -- having 4 separate binding pieces. I succeed well with this method. My quilts are squared when I am done. BUT -- I would llike to apply the binding in one piece, mitering the corners. I know how to miter. What I DON"T know is this: how do I apply the binding all around without having wavy edges?

  2. #2
    Super Member purplefiend's Avatar
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    I use a walking foot when I apply my binding. I learned to do my binding by watching Kaye Wood's PBS program.
    Here's a link to where you find the video. Scroll down on the right and look for mitered binding.

    http://www.kayewoodtv.com/

  3. #3
    Power Poster amma's Avatar
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    A walking foot is very helpful!! :D:D:D

  4. #4
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplefiend
    I use a walking foot when I apply my binding. I learned to do my binding by watching Kaye Wood's PBS program.
    Here's a link to where you find the video. Scroll down on the right and look for mitered binding.

    http://www.kayewoodtv.com/

    thanks you for the link. That is exactly how I do my mitered corners. It's not he corners that challenge me. It's the fact that I sometimes end up with one side being a little longer than the other. With the 4 separate bindings I have accurately measured lengths and "make the side of the quilt fit the length of the binding." With the continuous binding, I try not to stretch, but I still end up with wavy edges or one side longer than the opposite side...maybe just a half inch or so, but not squared. I do use a walking foot.

  5. #5
    Super Member EasyPeezy's Avatar
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    Do you starch your binding? Do you cut your binding on the straight grain?
    Avoid pulling on the binding while sewing.

  6. #6
    Super Member ckcowl's Avatar
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    you measure your quilt all the way around and add about 10". leave a (tail) of 4-5" when you start attaching to one side, stitch down one side, miter the corner, keep going along next side, after you miter that 4th corner and are (heading) for the beginning stop and take it out. overlap the two ends of binding and cut them so the (overlap) is equal to the binding width (2 1/2" if that's the width you are using) put the two ends right sides together to join them diagonally, stitch the diagnal, trim the triangles refold the binding and finish attaching it.

  7. #7
    Super Member candi's Avatar
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    Hmmm...I didn't know you could attach the binding separately like that. One learns something new every day. Thanks and good luck with the continuous binding, it's the only way I know how to do it, and from my experience if your top is square, your binding will be too. Just start in the middle of one side and leave a long-enough tail before you start stitching.

    Here is a great tut http://loftcreations.blogspot.com/20...-tutorial.html

    Also, to figure out how much of a long binding strip you need, add the lengths of all four sides together plus about 10'', this way you have some wiggle room when you are joining the ends.

    I hope this helps!

  8. #8
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by candi
    Hmmm...I didn't know you could attach the binding separately like that. One learns something new every day. Thanks and good luck with the continuous binding, it's the only way I know how to do it, and from my experience if your top is square, your binding will be too. Just start in the middle of one side and leave a long-enough tail before you start stitching.

    Here is a great tut http://loftcreations.blogspot.com/20...-tutorial.html

    Also, to figure out how much of a long binding strip you need, add the lengths of all four sides together plus about 10'', this way you have some wiggle room when you are joining the ends.

    I hope this helps!
    I do appreciate all of this help. The tutorial is great. It's the first time I actually understand how to join the two ends. I will try again -- but I will be more careful not to stretch anything. Perhaps I'm too diligent in making everything fit and tidy. I may be pulling more than I need to.

    Thanks all for your help.

  9. #9
    deema's Avatar
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    I always measure the whole perimeter of my quilt, then add 20" to be safe. Leaves a fair bit of extra when I'm done, but it gets put in my scrap pile and will be used eventually. lol

    So long as you're not pulling and stretching the fabric, it shouldn't be wavy.

  10. #10
    Senior Member crashnquilt's Avatar
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    First, the quilt needs to be squared as close as possible. I always cut my binding on the bias so that I can have just a bit of "fudge factor". Personally, I think with binding on the bias you can turn it over to the back much easier and you can fiddle with the miters easier.

    Before binding, lay the quilt out on the floor or a bed and see if you have any waves before you begin. What is there before will really show up after. You need to "square" the quilt after you have done the quilting.

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