Never like my binding
#21
I always use a 2 1/2" binding, folded in half. This requires a 3/8" seam allowance for a perfect fitting binding. I am fortunate to have a machine foot that is exactly the right size to achieve this. Using a left needle position with a 1/4" foot will also make a 3/8" seam. By the way, your binding looks good.
#22
I use Sharon Schamber's method. I watch this YouTube video every time I bind a quilt. I skip gluing down the back because I have trouble sewing it down by hand after it has been glued. Otherwise, I follow her instructions using 2.5" binding strips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hW...eature=related
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hW...eature=related
#23
I've always pressed my binding in half - and then sometimes had "issues" with it - but it never dawned on me just to NOT DO THAT - LOL!!!
Since I'm rather new to quilting, I was use to doing binding without the double thickness- so then the pressed line was not an issue, but there were other problems doing that on the quilt. Then I figured out I was suppose to sew it double, and that worked better but then the ironed fold was sometimes not to my liking.
I've got a table runner waiting for a binding, now I'm excited to try it without ironing and see how that goes - and that says a lot because I NEVER look forward to doing the binding.
Since I'm rather new to quilting, I was use to doing binding without the double thickness- so then the pressed line was not an issue, but there were other problems doing that on the quilt. Then I figured out I was suppose to sew it double, and that worked better but then the ironed fold was sometimes not to my liking.
I've got a table runner waiting for a binding, now I'm excited to try it without ironing and see how that goes - and that says a lot because I NEVER look forward to doing the binding.
#24
I never iron my binding in half. I sew the binding on with a machine on the front and then roll it to the back and hand stitch. I find it much easier to hand stitch if it hasn't been ironed with a sharp crease. My stitches do not show and with a sharp crease it is much harder to run your needle through without the stitch showing.
I usually don't have patchwork next to my binding (usually a border) so I don't have to be true to 1/4" seam allowance. My the edge of my walking foot is 3/8" so that's what I use with a 2 1/2" binding fabric. If I use 1/4" seam allowance then I use 2 1/4" binding fabric. To miter the corner I just stop 3/8" instead of 1/4" but otherwise proceed as usual.
Before I put on the binding I stitch very close to the edge all the way around my quilt and then trim the excess batting and backing away. I also square my quilt at this point although that is usually only minimal adjustment because of the way I have measured and put on my borders. The stitching gives the edge some stability and it's one less thing I have to worry about when putting on the binding that all the layers are even.
I piece my bindings using a bias seam. This reduces bulk and makes the seam almost invisible. I audition the binding roughly before sewing it on to make sure seams do not come in corners.
I have never had much luck making bindings that are machine sewn on both sides look very neat. I like hand sewing so I don't mind that part of it.
I usually don't have patchwork next to my binding (usually a border) so I don't have to be true to 1/4" seam allowance. My the edge of my walking foot is 3/8" so that's what I use with a 2 1/2" binding fabric. If I use 1/4" seam allowance then I use 2 1/4" binding fabric. To miter the corner I just stop 3/8" instead of 1/4" but otherwise proceed as usual.
Before I put on the binding I stitch very close to the edge all the way around my quilt and then trim the excess batting and backing away. I also square my quilt at this point although that is usually only minimal adjustment because of the way I have measured and put on my borders. The stitching gives the edge some stability and it's one less thing I have to worry about when putting on the binding that all the layers are even.
I piece my bindings using a bias seam. This reduces bulk and makes the seam almost invisible. I audition the binding roughly before sewing it on to make sure seams do not come in corners.
I have never had much luck making bindings that are machine sewn on both sides look very neat. I like hand sewing so I don't mind that part of it.
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hamburg,Western New York State
Posts: 4,856
If all else fails you can 'fill' your binding with thin strips of batting. Many times if part of the pattern will be lost by sewing a wider seam, I simply fill the binding as I go and the result is a firm binding. I hope that I have explained this well enough. If not send me a pm.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Woburn, MA
Posts: 711
I always sew the binding on about 1/3 of the way in. If you think about it, one third sewn down, 1/3 on one side, and the other third around to the other side. After sewing the binding to the quilt, I always press the binding away from the quilt, before folding over. By doing this, your binding will be filled with batting. I always sew the binding on the back and bring it over to the front and machine sew it down (covering the stitch line). Comes out perfect every time. Give it a try, I think you will be much happier doing it this way.
Last edited by Donnamarie; 10-28-2015 at 09:52 AM.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 947
So for those who never press their binding in half -- are you still stitching through two layers of the binding for the classic double binding? Or are you advocating a single layer binding?
I'm having a hard time envisioning what the benefits are, but then, I don't generally have any trouble with my current method (I'm another who uses 2 1/4 inch strips, miter pieced, folded and pressed in half and stitched with a walking foot.)
I'm having a hard time envisioning what the benefits are, but then, I don't generally have any trouble with my current method (I'm another who uses 2 1/4 inch strips, miter pieced, folded and pressed in half and stitched with a walking foot.)
#30
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
Posts: 7,695
I had the same problem on all my early quilts until I figured out that if I cut the binding 2 1/4" instead of 2 1/2" would work for me. Not sure why, but my bindings are always full now. Might work for you?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
3
12-25-2010 09:49 PM