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Thread: piecing back - selvedge to selvedge

  1. #11
    Super Member Deborahlees's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JanTx View Post
    When I have to piece a backing horizontally I used to trim off the selvedg as carefully as I could and then sew my 1/2" seam. The results were "iffy" at best as to how straight my cutting had been. Now I leave the selvedge on until after I sew the seam - using a seam allowance that is the width of the selvedge plus 1/2". This works so much better for me! When I told my BQF (best quilty friend) about this she informed me that she's been doing it this way for a while. So ... in case I'm not the last one on the planet to figure this out ... here's to straighter seams!

    I prefer larger backings and seam vertically when I can, but ... lately they seem to all come out better horizontally. I quilt them myself on my domestic machine.
    This makes sense, and I understand what you are saying, however I have had the salvage edge shrink differently than the rest of the yardage. May I suggest after the seam is sewn to use your wavey/pinking blades and cut off the salvage, then iron seam open, will lay flatter for backing....IMHO
    Yes that is a real picture of my hometown Temecula, California. We feature premiere Wineries, World Class Golf Courses, Pechanga Indian Casino and Hot Air Balloons

  2. #12
    Super Member JanTx's Avatar
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    I leave the selvedge on until after I sew the seam - then cut and press open. So ... seam allowance plus the width of the selvedge - sew, cut, press open. Don't know why it took me so long to come up with this!
    So many quilts, so little time.

  3. #13
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holice View Post
    Have you tried John Flynn's method of cutting and piecing the back on the diagonal. Sure saves fabric.
    Yes, I've tried it, but didn't get the math quite right. I had to add "embellishment" to make it fit. I added a row of leftover blocks. It worked out, but I'd like to try again to get it right.
    One step at a time, always forward.

  4. #14
    Super Member SunlitenSmiles's Avatar
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    Flynn method works great !!!!! I guess it helps if you have algebra & geometry but if not try it with a piece of paper and you will see how it works....saves lots of fabric and the full length of the seam is never on the fold when storing the quilt. If you do not understand the math just plug your projects numbers into the formula, after first checking to be sure you are within the guidelines. My avatar has a backing done this way and it is difficult to even find the seam after quilting. My two tall friends who are holding up the quilt for the picture were giggl.ing and trying to find the seam when I snaped the photo
    Last edited by SunlitenSmiles; 10-01-2012 at 03:08 AM.

  5. #15
    Super Member grann of 6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tashana View Post
    If the salvage is not printed but the same color as fabric I don't even cut it off. The width of the seam is the width of the selvage. Done!
    The only problem with that is that when the quilt is washed the selvage will shrink differently than the rest of the quilt. I always fold my fabric enough times that I can get my 36" ruler lined along the selvage and then cut it off with my rotary cutter.

  6. #16
    Super Member quiltmom04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scissor Queen View Post
    I may give this a try next time. I always snip and rip the selvedges off.
    Me, too. If you tear it, it's always straight.

  7. #17
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    I rip the salvages off.press smooth and sew.i know i have a straight seam that way.and always a1/2 seam allowence.i'm a long armer and 1/4 seams stand up as they are quilted and hard to manage.

  8. #18
    Super Member QuiltnLady1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinkiris View Post
    Holice-- Try as I might, I can't make sense of the John Flynn method! Maybe you could clue me in to what I'm missing? Seem like it makes no sense to cut fabric diagonally, sew it back together and it's LARGER??? I don't get it...
    Here goes -- if you make a paper sample it may help you get the picture.
    1. Get a sheet of paper (8 1/2 x 11 works great).
    2. Fold it across the diagonal and cut on the fold.
    3. Now, lay the pieces on a flat surface cut edges together and slide the right side toward you. See how the overall width of the paper gets wider? This is what happens with the fabric back -- after you make the cut you move the fabric up or down until the piece is wide enough and long enough for the back.

    For me it is great because it saves fabric (if you are doing a big quilt and the fat back is not quite big enough, this still works. The other thing I like is that the diagonal does not usually match any seams -- I hate it when the back seam winds up an exact match for one of my long pieced seams. (Since I normally use my home machine I don't have the problem with the roller.)

    There is a formula out there that allows you to calculate the fabric you need: http://www.multi-patch.com/html/fabric_calc.php
    QuiltnLady1

    When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

  9. #19
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    I understand the John Flynn method, and it makes sense, except: there will still be waste from the triangular pieces that stick up and down? Right? I've never done it, but wonder how you get the line straight to cut on the angle. I could put my quilt frame sticks on the fabric, but how do I get the fabric to lie perfectly flat and square? I suppose tape it to the floor? Would a string stretched across be good enough?

  10. #20
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    If you leave the selvedge on, snip it about every 2 inches to prevent puckering from uneven shrinkage. I've done this for clothes that were washed frequently and never had a puckering problem.
    Shirley in Arizona

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