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Yes that is a real picture of my hometown Temecula, California. We feature premiere Wineries, World Class Golf Courses, Pechanga Indian Casino and Hot Air Balloons
I leave the selvedge on until after I sew the seam - then cut and press open. So ... seam allowance plus the width of the selvedge - sew, cut, press open. Don't know why it took me so long to come up with this!
So many quilts, so little time.
Flynn method works great !!!!! I guess it helps if you have algebra & geometry but if not try it with a piece of paper and you will see how it works....saves lots of fabric and the full length of the seam is never on the fold when storing the quilt. If you do not understand the math just plug your projects numbers into the formula, after first checking to be sure you are within the guidelines. My avatar has a backing done this way and it is difficult to even find the seam after quilting. My two tall friends who are holding up the quilt for the picture were giggl.ing and trying to find the seam when I snaped the photo
Last edited by SunlitenSmiles; 10-01-2012 at 03:08 AM.
I rip the salvages off.press smooth and sew.i know i have a straight seam that way.and always a1/2 seam allowence.i'm a long armer and 1/4 seams stand up as they are quilted and hard to manage.
1. Get a sheet of paper (8 1/2 x 11 works great).
2. Fold it across the diagonal and cut on the fold.
3. Now, lay the pieces on a flat surface cut edges together and slide the right side toward you. See how the overall width of the paper gets wider? This is what happens with the fabric back -- after you make the cut you move the fabric up or down until the piece is wide enough and long enough for the back.
For me it is great because it saves fabric (if you are doing a big quilt and the fat back is not quite big enough, this still works. The other thing I like is that the diagonal does not usually match any seams -- I hate it when the back seam winds up an exact match for one of my long pieced seams. (Since I normally use my home machine I don't have the problem with the roller.)
There is a formula out there that allows you to calculate the fabric you need: http://www.multi-patch.com/html/fabric_calc.php
When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.
I understand the John Flynn method, and it makes sense, except: there will still be waste from the triangular pieces that stick up and down? Right? I've never done it, but wonder how you get the line straight to cut on the angle. I could put my quilt frame sticks on the fabric, but how do I get the fabric to lie perfectly flat and square? I suppose tape it to the floor? Would a string stretched across be good enough?
If you leave the selvedge on, snip it about every 2 inches to prevent puckering from uneven shrinkage. I've done this for clothes that were washed frequently and never had a puckering problem.
Shirley in Arizona