Try this, it should end your twisted problem: https://youtu.be/SqpE3mLqyVM at time of 13:50

This is my method too. She was an active member of the About.com quilting forum when I first started quilting so her bias binding tutorial and this tutorial are the only way I've ever done binding.

Cari

I just went through the same issue when teaching my friend how to put the binding on. We played twister for a while before we had it all going in the right direction.

This is the perfect solution to joining the two ends.

This is the tutorial I use, also. I printed it off several years ago when I was first learning to make quilts. I still have it beside me for every binding that I do. It is so well written and demonstrated, especially where she uses the two different colors for the end join. Really just clicked for me.

No--join by opening the two ends and you will put the RIGHT sides together--google Fons & Porter binding---I've modifed their method so I don't do all that marking--but the concept works great. You will have two tails of about 10" overlapping the gap left (leave about 10 " unsewn--this is crucial otherwise you are going to be wrestling the quilt). Now fold back one side and finger press. Fold back the other tail--leaving a 1/4" gap between the two--this is also crucial! I usually will actually press this with the iron, but you could mark it if you want. Now with the quilt edge laying in front on you and the quilt toward you, open up one side (I always do left hand side) with the Right Side of Fabric up. You will have a pressed in X. Open up the Right hand side, wrong side of fabric toward you (so that the two Right Sides of fabric are together) and center the two pressed in X's just like when you join fabric strips on the diagonal. You will have to bunch up the quilt to get it to meet well--don't worry about this--that's what our stomach's are made to do to help here! I pin like crazy to hold these two X (right sides together) as it' will be awkward under the needle. Sew like you would any diagonal join seam. Now pull the quilt edge straight and your join should flip down correctly. Trim the tail flaps and stitch the binding down . It should be perfect.

This makes it just a little easier if you press your triangle before you start sewing on the binding.

Jenny Doan has a very good lesson on finishing bindings in all of her Block magazines. The only thing I would add to that would be to start with the "Magic Triangle". (I iron mine first!)
When your beginning of the binding is laying on the quilt in the right place, open the strip and fold the top left corner down so that this top edge is even with the right side of the binding strip. Fold the binding in half again. Press very well. Put a pin at the "sweet spot", the spot at the base of the triangle, where the triangle meets the edge of the binging strip. , and start sewing about 6 inches from that tip.

When you have sewn on most of the binding, stretching the binding at least a little as you sew it on, and come around to the end, stop sewing at least 6 inches from the tip of the triangle. Take the quilt out of the machine. Pin the beginning tail to the quilt where you will want it to be, keeping it very snug. Stretch just a little. Then pin the ending tail where you want it, stretching that a little, too. Cut off ending tail at the sweet spot. There is a pin there, remember? When ending tail is cut off, take out all pins.

Now use a binder clip or Clover clip to hold the quilt edges together where there is no binding yet. This just makes it easier to work without all that weight in your way. Open both binding tails out flat. Place right sides together matching top edges. Find the diagonal line you pressed in. Twist the binding edges so that that diagonal line is horizontal and tails are at right angles to each other. Pin well. Sew on pressed line. Press seam open, you should see a square in there with a diagonal line through it. Trim the seam allowance. Fold in half again being sure the seam remains open. Sew this last area of binding to the quilt.

Since I use Elmer's Glue to attach my binding onto the quilt before I take it to the machine to stitch down, when I come to the ends I have the beginning end with its 45 degree edge folded, then I place the other end over it giving it a little tug, I add a little glue just past the 1/4" mark, press the end to it and then take it to the machine to stitch, then come back and finish gluing the rest of the binding to the quilt. Has worked great for me and no pins to prick me either.

I overlap the two ends by the width of the binding (2 1/2 inch binding = 2 1/2 inch overlap). I then fold & crease the top piece corner into a HST, wrong sides together, so that looking at the overlap, it looks like a bias seam. If you peek at the raw edge you just folded under, the raw edges will align with the raw edge of the bottom piece. Carefully lift and pin the two top raw edges together (right sides will be facing and on the inside). This is the edges you will sew diagonally into your 1/4" seam. Just follow the line you previously creased. Trim (I always check first), press and you are ready to stitch the remainder of your overlap onto the quilt edge. I never have twisted edges anymore. Hope this is understandable and saves the day for you.

Snooze and Emilia's Nana have it right. This is just the way I said it in post 27. When you do it this way, it doesn't matter how wide the binding is. If your binding is 2 inches, the triangle will show you the sweet spot at 2 inches. If it is 3 inches, the sweet spot will be 3 inches from the tiip.