I have finished putting all of my blocks together. Next step, Sashing, corner stones and borders. Then I saw a quilt with blocks on point. Need to figure out how. Any good tutorials, out there?
|
Originally Posted by stitchesbyLA
I have finished putting all of my blocks together. Next step, Sashing, corner stones and borders. Then I saw a quilt with blocks on point. Need to figure out how. Any good tutorials, out there?
Use that for your guide in laying out blocks Easiest way to do sashing might be to put strip on lower right side, then another strip on lower left side of each block. Then lay out blocks. you'll need additional strips after you have all blocks laid out, but you'll be able to see that quite easily. |
1 Attachment(s)
Here are two helpful links:
http://quiltbug.com/Articles/on-point.htm http://quiltbug.com/Articles/on-point.htm When I did the image in EQ below, you can see the program chops off the outer edges of the sashings (whether you use a separate color for cornerstones or not). However, that's not how it has to be. It's just an aesthetic choice. If you do want it chopped, then you would use the finished size of the white blocks to determine the size of the setting and corner triangles. If you keep them intact, and want your blocks fully framed, then you would take the finished white block size PLUS the finished sashing size to deterime the triangle sizes. Whatever that measurement is, you would look it up in the links provided above. You should heavily starch the fabric as you'll be dealing with long bias edges. Try not to manhandle the triangles too much. Take care when laying them out to attach to the rows - make sure they are orientated correctly. You won't be the first to attach one of them backwards or upside down. :roll: Mea Culpa. ;-) I always like to cut the triangles oversized by an inch or two as I like my points to float (personal preference). When adding the setting triangles, I always sew from the right angle out towards the edge making sure not to stretch the triangle. There will be little dog ears that I clip off before sewing the rows together. An on-point setting makes for a much more interesting look than a standard grid pattern. Just take it slow and you'll be thrilled with the outcome. Post pictures when you're done! And welcome! |
Grannie Annie, I tried but couldnt figure this method out. Thanks for taking the time.
|
MTS,
Thank you Thank you Thank you. I origianally had it set up as a grid pattern 4 columns with 5 rows. So I need to figure out that conversion to set on point. Then I can use your formulas in the link to make all the setting triangles. |
Question. If the blocks are gonna have sashing and a corner stone. Do I only use have of that measurement as the finished block size to figure the setting triangles. Since the blocks actually share half of the sashing etc. Does this make sense?
|
Slightly off-topic but still relevant - I have a technique for sashing that I really like. Sometimes it's hard to get the blocks lined up straight on the sashing, so I prefer to add sashing to each block. Instead of sewing long strips between each row, sew a border of sashing to each block. Here's a picture showing what I mean:
http://www.seamstobeyouandme.com/wor...06/Lynette.jpg |
Originally Posted by MTS
Here are two helpful links:
http://quiltbug.com/Articles/on-point.htm http://quiltbug.com/Articles/on-point.htm When I did the image in EQ below, you can see the program chops off the outer edges of the sashings (whether you use a separate color for cornerstones or not). However, that's not how it has to be. It's just an aesthetic choice. what a great link. Thank you If you do want it chopped, then you would use the finished size of the white blocks to determine the size of the setting and corner triangles. If you keep them intact, and want your blocks fully framed, then you would take the finished white block size PLUS the finished sashing size to deterime the triangle sizes. Whatever that measurement is, you would look it up in the links provided above. You should heavily starch the fabric as you'll be dealing with long bias edges. Try not to manhandle the triangles too much. Take care when laying them out to attach to the rows - make sure they are orientated correctly. You won't be the first to attach one of them backwards or upside down. :roll: Mea Culpa. ;-) I always like to cut the triangles oversized by an inch or two as I like my points to float (personal preference). When adding the setting triangles, I always sew from the right angle out towards the edge making sure not to stretch the triangle. There will be little dog ears that I clip off before sewing the rows together. An on-point setting makes for a much more interesting look than a standard grid pattern. Just take it slow and you'll be thrilled with the outcome. Post pictures when you're done! And welcome! |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by stitchesbyLA
Question. If the blocks are gonna have sashing and a corner stone. Do I only use have of that measurement as the finished block size to figure the setting triangles. Since the blocks actually share half of the sashing etc. Does this make sense?
Originally Posted by MTS
If you keep them intact, and want your blocks fully framed, then you would take the finished white block size PLUS the finished sashing size to deterime the triangle sizes.
Again, If you have no sashing, then it's just the finished measurement of the white block. If you have sashing, but are chopping off the end pieces, like EQ is doing, then it's just the measurement of the finished white block. You can see in the diagram below how the pink cornerstones/sashing would be part of the outer edge, so it need not be included in the setting triangle. btw I don't particularly like that look because I prefer the full framing effect around the whole quilt - the whole zig-zag efffect. And the more I look at it now, the more I think it's just not worth the hassle of dealing with it chopped off. So, ixnay on that. ;-) Now..if you have the full cornerstone/sashing, then you need to add the finished white block PLUS the finished width of the sashing. That total is the number you use to look up in those charts for cutting the starting squares for the setting triangles. Yell if you need anything else. eta: One thing I wanted to add - if you're trying to figure the size of a quilt with blocks on point, the number you need to remember is 1.414 (but 1.4 will do fine :mrgreen: ). That multiplied by the finished size of the block with give you the measurement of the diagonal. So if you have five 10" blocks that would create a 50" top across if put in a straight grid, those same blocks on point would be about 71" across. |
Duh! And way better written than my ramblings. :mrgreen:
http://quiltville.com/onpointmath.shtml |
Originally Posted by stitchesbyLA
Grannie Annie, I tried but couldnt figure this method out. Thanks for taking the time.
Lay out about 9 blocks in the order you want------------3 rows of three---on a piece of paper or a table cloth. Now turn the paper a quarter turn to the top or to the bottom. NOW YOU ARE ON POINT. Decide which POINT will be your top and which will be your side. Follow the path of each of WHAT WAS YOUR SIDEWAYS ROW to add more blocks. You'll stitch blocks together as always------in a long row----------but you'll lay them on the 45 degree line I told you to make first. I apologize! I KNOW I have trouble telling people how to do this-----because I don't even have to think about it. My head KNOWS how to do it. |
Originally Posted by Peckish
Slightly off-topic but still relevant - I have a technique for sashing that I really like. Sometimes it's hard to get the blocks lined up straight on the sashing, so I prefer to add sashing to each block. Instead of sewing long strips between each row, sew a border of sashing to each block. Here's a picture showing what I mean:
http://www.seamstobeyouandme.com/wor...06/Lynette.jpg After these blocks are set together, it's very simple to see where a few additional sashing strips will need to be added to complete the quilt. And, IMO, counting those bottom strips as part of the finished block pattern is only logical. That way you can make one determination of how many blocks-----------rather than how many blocks and "allow how much space for sashing??" Corner stones are just treated as any other measurement. |
Originally Posted by GrannieAnnie
Originally Posted by Peckish
Slightly off-topic but still relevant - I have a technique for sashing that I really like. Sometimes it's hard to get the blocks lined up straight on the sashing, so I prefer to add sashing to each block. Instead of sewing long strips between each row, sew a border of sashing to each block. Here's a picture showing what I mean:
http://www.seamstobeyouandme.com/wor...06/Lynette.jpg Here's another picture, close-up this time so you can see what I mean. My friend made this quilt, and she added a third border on this block, but if you ignore it, and look instead at the first green border, then the dark red border, that shows what I'm talking about. She stopped each block at this point (didn't add the third border) and sewed them all together, at which point it looks like it has sashing. http://www.seamstobeyouandme.com/wor...illow-sham.jpg |
Originally Posted by Peckish
Originally Posted by GrannieAnnie
Originally Posted by Peckish
Slightly off-topic but still relevant - I have a technique for sashing that I really like. Sometimes it's hard to get the blocks lined up straight on the sashing, so I prefer to add sashing to each block. Instead of sewing long strips between each row, sew a border of sashing to each block. Here's a picture showing what I mean:
http://www.seamstobeyouandme.com/wor...06/Lynette.jpg Except I wasn't saying to add sashing strips to the LOWER edge of each block, I was saying to add sashing strips to EVERY edge of the block, all 4 of them. Then simply sew the blocks together, matching seams, and you have instant sashing. Here's another picture, close-up this time so you can see what I mean. My friend made this quilt, and she added a third border on this block, but if you ignore it, and look instead at the first green border, then the dark red border, that shows what I'm talking about. She stopped each block at this point (didn't add the third border) and sewed them all together, at which point it looks like it has sashing. http://www.seamstobeyouandme.com/wor...illow-sham.jpg Gotcha. But you're going to have seams down the middle of every sash. Which is fine if that's the look you want, |
Originally Posted by GrannieAnnie
Gotcha. But you're going to have seams down the middle of every sash. Which is fine if that's the look you want,
|
Okay, Thanks everyone. I got it figured out. It just took me a while. Then when I finally got it all layed out on point. I didnt like these particular blocks on point. So I ended up doing my originally plan. But now i know how to do it next time. All of your help, links and diagrams truly helped soooo much.
|
I knew that you would get a bunch of help on here. I just love this board.
|
Thanks for telling me about this board, Susie Quilter. I have enjoying myself. I even entered a swap. Keepin in stitches.
|
You are so welcome. You will find that you get less sewing done tho........I'm on here waaaayyyyyy to much.......lol
Originally Posted by stitchesbyLA
Thanks for telling me about this board, Susie Quilter. I have enjoying myself. I even entered a swap. Keepin in stitches.
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:12 PM. |