Okay all... quick asap question. How best to do this? Like a cabinet 40, or 65 (the small one with legs). On my 40, the legs do NOT remove.

Can I take out the machine (out of the cabinet), wrap it in towels and lay it in a footwell. Then, turn the cabinet upside down, or sideways and set it heavy (top side) down in the front passenger seat that's lowered. (assume the dimensions fit, they do). It won't hurt the machine or cabinet will it?

I don't have a truck... and Billy is too far away!!! (lol!)

I am pretty sure you can take the machine out of the cabinet, after all, Billy swaps his around all in his table the time. It is probably just a question of taking off the belt, but I am not quite sure on that part. So why not go for it - where there is a will, there is a way.

Yes... this is an electric machine. And I want to take it to the shop for an electric overhaul and rewire anyways. the hard part will be detaching the wires and stuff. I know there are grub screws that likely hold the machine in... this is a '52 201-2. I don't know how to detach the electrical and stuff.

I've looked all around on line and haven't found a tut on it. HAVE found how to pull off the motor to rewire. So maybe, I can detach the electric FROM THE MACHINE and leave the motor/wires still in the cabinet. At least to get it home.

I guess I'll see.

When I was a kid, I couldn't live without my sewing machine which was an old Kenmore cabinet style. I just took out the machine and sat it on the station wagon deck and slid the cabinet in on it's back. It probably traveled from the winter to the summer place with me for at least 10 years in that fashion and I never had any trouble with it.

Diana

Is the wiring thru a hole in the wooden top? Does this machine have a knee controller instead of a foot controller?
If so, detach the knee controller from the side of the cabinet...it is only a couple of screws. Then lifting the head of the machine and laying it sort of on it's back....loosen or unscrew the little pegs that hold the machine in place and lift the machine. DO NOT LOSE THESE SCREWS! they can't be replaced to match up with your cabinet. The repair shop doesn't ususally carry replacement screws for old cabinets.
By removing the screws for the controller first it gives you more leeway to manuvear the machine for putting it in the car.

Then you can transport it the way you wanted.

Sorry to yell, but I used to work for a dealer years ago, and I had calls all the time asking for replacement screws....

Is there a reason that the cabinet has to go too? If just the machine needs work done on it? :D:D:D

Well... if I buy it... it 'has to go' to MY house! lol. I would take the machine head into be re-wired anyways...

Update: I went and looked at the machine... it's a plain Jane, in a plain Jane cabinet. circa 1952 vintage 201-2. It has the modern face plate/back plate, a few rust spots on the bobbin cover plate, and bobbin case, the plain (no measurement) needle plate and a cabinet that the varnish is flaking off. On the plus side, there are few scratches even though this woman used it 'all the time'. The drawers have the original bill of sale, the manual (very beat up), A Greist buttonholer with all the cams and the dog cover plate, and all the attachments for the machine. The tensioner on the front, when you turn it, does a 'dance'... as if the shaft it's on is bent. I don't know if that's normal or not. The screw and the spring are intact. Wiring looks to be 'fine' but I didn't take the motor houseing cover off, I'm going to replace it anyways. The original Bakalite footpedal is there, with the knee lift installed.

The guy is advertising it for 199.00, said a lady offered him $75 for the machine head by itself. Asked me if $150 was out of my price range. (yeah, it is.). I'm thinking about it, but I may wait until I find the 'right one'.

Still it's in really good shape, other than the cabinet and the rust spots on the bobbin case/cover.

I dunno... on the fence....