Puckers EVERYWHERE
10-28-2012, 06:14 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Barling, Arkansas
Posts: 828
Originally Posted by Deborahlees
This is how I do it.....I put the wrong side up of the backing, on my average size dinning room table, then put down the batting, then the top....I make sure all my edges are correct, I generally cut by batting 2" wider all around, and then my batting 3" wider than top, using this method I can see the edge of my top, the edge of the batting and the edge of the backing all the way around, and know everything is square and good to go......
Next I run a row of safety pins in the middle from right to left, about 8 inches apart, this gives you a ' center flip point'...
Now what I like to do is the top first, so I flip the top to the middle (against the pins) drizzle my ESG (Elmer's SCHOOL Glue) in a thin lazy circle motion about 10-12" ON THE BATTING.....fold down the top and smooth with your hands until the section is wrinkle free, then fold back the top to the bottom of the previous glue, and drizzle again, flip down, smooth and continue until you have the top half done. At the point I spin the top around and do the other side in the same manner, only drizzling about 12" down at a time, do not worry if some of the glue soaks thru the top, it will dry and it will wash out......once the top is done...walk away for lets say 30-60 minutes, this will allow the glue to dry.... Now flip over your quilt having the un-glued backing on top and the dry smooth top on the bottom. You still have the safety pin row in the middle, that has kept everything together. Do exactly as you did for the top, flipping to the pin line, drizzling glue onto the batting and smoothing down the backing. YOU CAN GET IT AS SMOOTH AS GLASS.....once the back is done, and everything is smooth, I like to let it set for several hours or over night if possible....both sides should be very smooth, you will not have any wrinkles, your needle will not get gummed up and after your binding is on just throw it into the washer.....or not
I hope this helps some people with this great cheap method.....if you need more help PM me
Next I run a row of safety pins in the middle from right to left, about 8 inches apart, this gives you a ' center flip point'...
Now what I like to do is the top first, so I flip the top to the middle (against the pins) drizzle my ESG (Elmer's SCHOOL Glue) in a thin lazy circle motion about 10-12" ON THE BATTING.....fold down the top and smooth with your hands until the section is wrinkle free, then fold back the top to the bottom of the previous glue, and drizzle again, flip down, smooth and continue until you have the top half done. At the point I spin the top around and do the other side in the same manner, only drizzling about 12" down at a time, do not worry if some of the glue soaks thru the top, it will dry and it will wash out......once the top is done...walk away for lets say 30-60 minutes, this will allow the glue to dry.... Now flip over your quilt having the un-glued backing on top and the dry smooth top on the bottom. You still have the safety pin row in the middle, that has kept everything together. Do exactly as you did for the top, flipping to the pin line, drizzling glue onto the batting and smoothing down the backing. YOU CAN GET IT AS SMOOTH AS GLASS.....once the back is done, and everything is smooth, I like to let it set for several hours or over night if possible....both sides should be very smooth, you will not have any wrinkles, your needle will not get gummed up and after your binding is on just throw it into the washer.....or not
I hope this helps some people with this great cheap method.....if you need more help PM me
10-28-2012, 06:54 AM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 5,896
Originally Posted by Delilah
Is the school glue better than the sprays made for basting? Why use the school glue when there are sprays made specifically for basting that are water soluable?
1. Elmer's School Glue is more environmentally friendly
2. Elmer's School Glue doesn't end up all over surrounding areas (no over-spray)
3. Elmer's School Glue doesn't require extra ventilation
4. Elmer's School Glue is more readily available
5. Elmer's School Glue is a heck of a lot cheaper
I'm sure there are many more reasons.
10-28-2012, 07:12 AM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 214
I have done this several times with great success. I lay the backing down, batting on top. Pull the batting up and spray the glue on the backing. When glued, I press it from the backing side. This way I can remove any possible puckers. Then I lay down the backing/batting and spread the top over, pull back and glue. Again to the ironing board. Only one time did I get puckers in the back and it was at an edge where the backing came up. So now I go through the process and either pin, baste, or reglue the edges. Works great for me.
10-28-2012, 07:49 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Org. Texas now Florida
Posts: 846
My counter is 2.5 by 5 foot which is great for cutting etc. but not for quilting. I went to Home Depot and bought a 4 ft by 8 ft. ecuaboard, or masonite, light weight. I slide it behind my shelving when I not using it and pull it out to spray glue my quilt. It is large, but I can slide it up to my counter and pull it across the top by myself without much trouble at all. I center my backing on the markings I put on the board and tape the backing down.
Then I fold one side back, spray it and roll it back onto the backing, then do the same to the other side. I lay the top on, measure, and do the same, rolling back one side, spraying and smoothing. Once it has been sprayed, I also pin with 1.5 to 2 inch pins, using a spoon to help with closing the pins. I counted, average is 200 pins. I have to do both spraying and pinning because I don't have room when quilting and the quilt gets shoved around quite a bit. Another thing I do when quilting is I use my left arm a lot to hold the quilt and keep it straight, so I use a piece of a rubber glove that I wrap around my arm just below the elbow and my gloves that holds the quilt . If I didn't have that piece on my arm along with my surgical gloves I would be screaming and cussing at the quilt, lol. What a difference the rubber gloves and arm band make.
When I bought the board, I also bought a half inch piece of foam to glue on the other side, then covered it with felt so I can stand the board up and use it to audition my blocks for a quilt. Good Luck Syl
Then I fold one side back, spray it and roll it back onto the backing, then do the same to the other side. I lay the top on, measure, and do the same, rolling back one side, spraying and smoothing. Once it has been sprayed, I also pin with 1.5 to 2 inch pins, using a spoon to help with closing the pins. I counted, average is 200 pins. I have to do both spraying and pinning because I don't have room when quilting and the quilt gets shoved around quite a bit. Another thing I do when quilting is I use my left arm a lot to hold the quilt and keep it straight, so I use a piece of a rubber glove that I wrap around my arm just below the elbow and my gloves that holds the quilt . If I didn't have that piece on my arm along with my surgical gloves I would be screaming and cussing at the quilt, lol. What a difference the rubber gloves and arm band make.
When I bought the board, I also bought a half inch piece of foam to glue on the other side, then covered it with felt so I can stand the board up and use it to audition my blocks for a quilt. Good Luck Syl
10-29-2012, 01:19 PM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: North Texas formerly The Burgh
Posts: 3,392
I found that putting the glue on the batting and smoothing the fabric onto it was much better -- if you "smooth" the batting side - you (i should say I) tend to "stretch" it a little - so that when the glue dried, and the batting eased itself back to "normal" - i got puckers. By smoothing the backing fabric - no puckers. It really does work.
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