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Thread: Question for Machine Applique Quilters

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  1. #1
    Power Poster Prism99's Avatar
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    I think the cause of this problem is satin stitching that is very tight. I have noticed when I do satin stitching that is very close together, the needle holes in the applique are so close together that inevitably a lot of the applique fibers are going to be damaged. It's almost as if the satin stitching cuts the fabric. That is why the applique ends up lifting right at the stitching line of the satin stitch. The fibers under the satin stitching are still there, but they have separated from the body of the applique.

    The best solution, I think, is to change to a different type of stitch, such as the blind hem. Or, widen and lengthen the satin stitch so the stitches are not so close together. Another alternative is to do two rows of stitching, both with lengthened stitches. The first round is not as wide; the second round with a widened stitch covers up the first round. That way at least the needle holes are not right next to each other.

    A different needle might help also. For example, a ballpoint needle is supposed to "push" the fibers apart where as a sharp needle will pierce the fibers. I think it is the repeated piercing of the fibers so close together that is weakening the fabric.

    Possibly a different fusible would help also -- one that is more permanent. Regular Steam-a-Seam I noticed stays adhered very well, but it is pretty stiff.

  2. #2
    Super Member Deborahlees's Avatar
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    I use Lite Heat and Bond and a Blanket stitch on all my applique work. I think perhaps you may be using such a tight satin stitch that it is quiet literaly cutting the fabric.....If I don't want my blanket stitch stiff, then I window cut the bonding material, some times I like this look, some times I don't. I think we each do things just a little differently than others, and thats okay !!!
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  3. #3
    Super Member Weezy Rider's Avatar
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    I've used satin stitch applique and double sided wonderunder on sweatshirts which get washed more than the usual bed quilt. They usually last over 10 years. The fabric wears and rips from snags first. You have to make the stitch wide enough to cover. Some of the heirloom stitches don't ravel. I use the pin stitch to join lace to a sleeve - fold up a single hem, pin stitch, and cut off any excess. Have done this on nightgowns. It's just harder to turn corners with those than zigzag.

  4. #4
    Power Poster Jingle's Avatar
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    I made a couple of quilts for a couple of Grandsons. I turned the applique pieces under a 1/4" and pressed, pinned them on and just did a straight stitch about 1/8" from the edge. One is put away and not used, other was washed and dried often. The appliques are still on it. I'm thinking this is how I will now to do them.
    Another Phyllis
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  5. #5
    Junior Member coffeebreak's Avatar
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    I've never had that problem...but I can see it happening. What I do is I make sure my large zigzag stitch is mostly ON the applique and just the needle hole of the other side is on the fabric.This way the hole on the applique is over inside the applique piece and therefore away from the edge so it can't fray the edge. It also covers the whole applique piece edge...so again, the piece is covered and less apt to fray and with one hole off the applique piece and on the fabric...it encloses the applique edge all around. I don't use a "solid", really close ZZ as I want to make sure each hole makes its own indentation and not so close that the two holes merge together. And I always use the widest ZZ the piece will allow..the more stitches the better structure.

  6. #6
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    I have never had that problem. I use either a wide satin stitch, or a combination of decorative stitches. I know not every applique would benifit from such detailed decorative stitching, but it has been the style I've been working with. I frequently add decorative stitching across the applique to emphasize whatever design the applique is. I've never had it cut the fabric yet.

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