Question to "Quilting in Sections"
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Germany
Posts: 422
Question to "Quilting in Sections"
The next UFO is ready to be quilted: it's the second "Votes for Women" quilt because I didn't want such a big quilt out of 49 blocks!
Some years ago I got the little book "Quilting in Sections" written by Marti Michell and till now I never used this method: is there anyone who used this method and can share the experience you made? I have oly a domestic sewing machine and it is a little challenge to quilt a big quilt on it!
So I'm eager to hear whether this method makes it a little bit easier....
Looking forward to your answers!
And this is the quilt to be quilted next!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]526266[/ATTACH]
Some years ago I got the little book "Quilting in Sections" written by Marti Michell and till now I never used this method: is there anyone who used this method and can share the experience you made? I have oly a domestic sewing machine and it is a little challenge to quilt a big quilt on it!
So I'm eager to hear whether this method makes it a little bit easier....
Looking forward to your answers!
And this is the quilt to be quilted next!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]526266[/ATTACH]
#2
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 11,276
The book you refer to has several different techniques. With most of them, you QAYG with sections of the top. Since you have already finished the top, most of these techniques can't be used. I think there's probably only one method that will work: split the batting in thirds. You can split the backing in thirds too, or leave it whole. Sandwich the center of the quilt & quilt that to within an inch or so of the edge of the batting. Join the next third of the batting using fusible batting tape or stitching the pieces together. If you have split your backing, join that too. Sandwich this section & quilt. Repeat for the other side.
Before I got my longarm, I used a couple different techniques with good results.
Before I got my longarm, I used a couple different techniques with good results.
#4
I've used several of the methods in that book successfully, before getting my longarm. Like PaperPrincess said, for most of the methods you need to plan the quilting sections before you sew the entire top together. I would recommend reading the book as if you had not already finished the top, and deciding which method sounds best. Then you may want to disassemble the top somewhat to quilt it.
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Peotone IL
Posts: 2,802
I have another questions re: quilting in sections. When QAYGing, what I understand from reading, each block or section is quilted, then the individual blocks are put together with binding and batting for the binding. When the individual blocks are sewn together, does the backing have to be hand stitched? If not, how is this joining done by machine?
I hope this makes sense.
I hope this makes sense.
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 11,276
I have another questions re: quilting in sections. When QAYGing, what I understand from reading, each block or section is quilted, then the individual blocks are put together with binding and batting for the binding. When the individual blocks are sewn together, does the backing have to be hand stitched? If not, how is this joining done by machine?
I hope this makes sense.
I hope this makes sense.
Not sure exactly which technique you are referring to, but there are techniques where you do the whole thing by machine, like Sharon Pederson's book Reversible Quilts: Two at a Time
http://www.amazon.com/Reversible-Qui...ersible+quilts
#7
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I don't have the book, but I have used the method of splitting the batting into thirds. It really helped! A lot! There are a few tricks. Once you are sure the batting is big enough (allow extra on all sides), I would work with the batting alone to cut into thirds.
Tip #1: Use a permanent marker (Sharpie works well) to mark the mid-point of each of the four sides of the batting. This will help you center the batting later.
Tip #2: I did a wavy cut -- large S shaped curves -- because it helps later on with getting the batting joined together exactly where it was split, plus it prevents any crease developing in the quilt in later years. Do both cuts. Do not move the pieces, but use the permanent marker to make lots of registration marks (just lines connecting the pieces) along the cuts. This makes it really easy later on to join the batting exactly as it started out.
Tip #3: Do not move the pieces UNTIL you have used a permanent marker to mark top and bottom of each piece. I also marked left/middle/right. This helps later on so when you add a piece the batting pieces are all the correct side up. It also saves a lot of time trying to figure out which piece is the correct one. Roll up the two end pieces to store.
Tip #4: Mark the mid-point of each side of the quilt backing and quilt top. This helps keep all the layers lined up.
Tip #5: I used basting spray, but it needs to be used very carefully to prevent a mess. I found it helpful to lay down paper or sheeting on each side of the middle piece of batting, a little underneath the batting, so I got spray only on the areas that needed to stick together. You do not want to get basting spray on any of the backing or top that is not going to be stuck to the current piece of batting. Or, you can pin.
Tip #6: I left about 6" along each edge unquilted. You need to leave the edges unquilted so you can attach the next piece of batting after the middle is quilted. Leaving enough space just makes it easier.
Tip #7: I rolled the excess backing and top together and pinned them so they stayed out of the way of my quilting.
Tip #1: Use a permanent marker (Sharpie works well) to mark the mid-point of each of the four sides of the batting. This will help you center the batting later.
Tip #2: I did a wavy cut -- large S shaped curves -- because it helps later on with getting the batting joined together exactly where it was split, plus it prevents any crease developing in the quilt in later years. Do both cuts. Do not move the pieces, but use the permanent marker to make lots of registration marks (just lines connecting the pieces) along the cuts. This makes it really easy later on to join the batting exactly as it started out.
Tip #3: Do not move the pieces UNTIL you have used a permanent marker to mark top and bottom of each piece. I also marked left/middle/right. This helps later on so when you add a piece the batting pieces are all the correct side up. It also saves a lot of time trying to figure out which piece is the correct one. Roll up the two end pieces to store.
Tip #4: Mark the mid-point of each side of the quilt backing and quilt top. This helps keep all the layers lined up.
Tip #5: I used basting spray, but it needs to be used very carefully to prevent a mess. I found it helpful to lay down paper or sheeting on each side of the middle piece of batting, a little underneath the batting, so I got spray only on the areas that needed to stick together. You do not want to get basting spray on any of the backing or top that is not going to be stuck to the current piece of batting. Or, you can pin.
Tip #6: I left about 6" along each edge unquilted. You need to leave the edges unquilted so you can attach the next piece of batting after the middle is quilted. Leaving enough space just makes it easier.
Tip #7: I rolled the excess backing and top together and pinned them so they stayed out of the way of my quilting.
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