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Thread: Slits in quilt for daybed?

  1. #1
    Senior Member wannaquilt1's Avatar
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    Has anyone ever made a quilt for a daybed before? I need to make my daughter a quilt for her bed but don't know where to put the slits to accomodate for the springs that attatch to the sides of the frame.

  2. #2
    Super Member MellieKQuilter's Avatar
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    I would think that you would make the top to cover the bed, and then add borders.. and that is where the slit would be... somehow dont join the corners. That is what i envision. :)

  3. #3
    Super Member LeslieFrost's Avatar
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    I just made a quilt for my son's guest bedroom. The bed has a footboard, so the issue is the same as the daybed. Let's see if I can describe what I did. Think of a quilt that lays over the bed from side to side, with borders hanging down. Then, think of a piece that extends over the end of the bed, but is only as wide as the flat top of the mattress. That is the piece that you push down between the mattress and the footboard. I would think that you'd do the same for the daybed. Here is the link to the pictures:

    http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-141463-1.htm

  4. #4
    Senior Member wannaquilt1's Avatar
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    so should i just make the quilt and then put the slits in after its finished?

  5. #5
    Super Member butterflywing's Avatar
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    is this the kind that has a lower level that pops up? or a top-only that has metal or wood work on the back and two sides?

    if it has only the back and two arms, you would make it in a "T" shape, and bind it off that shape, as they did in colonial times. if it pops up, make a skirt that attaches to the frame beneath the mattress with velcro. the skirt should be made in three parts. the front, the side and the other side. if the skirt has an upright ruffle or gather, it will disguise the next step. the top need only be a little larger than the top of the mattress + the overhang. for instance, if the mattress is 36" across and is 5" high, the quilt should be 36 + 5 = 41" + enough to tuck under the mattress.
    let's say that's another 5" for good measure. that gives the total of 36 (top depth) + 5 (height of mattress) + 5 (tuck).
    you need a total of 46" for the width and you need to add the same extra 10" for the length, for the same reasons. at the corners, you still have to create a "T", but it will be much shallower, because the quilt won't be hanging to the floor now.

  6. #6
    Cyn
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    I tuck my quilts under the mattress on the ends :)

  7. #7
    Senior Member wannaquilt1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by butterflywing
    is this the kind that has a lower level that pops up? or a top-only that has metal or wood work on the back and two sides?

    if it has only the back and two arms, you would make it in a "T" shape, and bind it off that shape, as they did in colonial times. if it pops up, make a skirt that attaches to the frame beneath the mattress with velcro. the skirt should be made in three parts. the front, the side and the other side. if the skirt has an upright ruffle or gather, it will disguise the next step. the top need only be a little larger than the top of the mattress + the overhang. for instance, if the mattress is 36" across and is 5" high, the quilt should be 36 + 5 = 41" + enough to tuck under the mattress.
    let's say that's another 5" for good measure. that gives the total of 36 (top depth) + 5 (height of mattress) + 5 (tuck).
    you need a total of 46" for the width and you need to add the same extra 10" for the length, for the same reasons. at the corners, you still have to create a "T", but it will be much shallower, because the quilt won't be hanging to the floor now.
    this one has the bed underneath that slides out for her sleepovers :) so I guess i would need to make a T on each corner? how do i do that though?

  8. #8
    Super Member butterflywing's Avatar
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    measure from the outside edge of the under-tuck in the back to the outside edge of the under-tuck in the front. make that drawing on paper for reference. if you have graph paper, that's best, but not necessary.

    measure from the outside edge of the undertuck on one side to the outside edge of the undertuck on the other. again draw this on the same drawing, so that they overlay. measure exactly where the corner front posts are by measuring across the front from one post to the other. that will be where the slits (one side of the "T" opening) are. the slit is not really the shape of a slit. they are really the shape of an "L" that's been cut out of a square., or a dart, if you can picture that. picture a border, with the cornerstone missing. when it hangs straight down, it forms a boxy shape. that's what you want it to do. that shape is called a "T" quit because when you lay it flat, it assumes a "T" shape. you just have to remember a border with a missing cornerstone. that's the shape to make. is that easier to understand? if you can't envision it, i'll find a link.

  9. #9
    Super Member butterflywing's Avatar
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    http://hooplapatterns.com/heritage_fitch.html


    these aren't instructions, but pictures. you would have to make your own measurements.

    to see more, google 't-shaped quilt instructions'. i didn't actually find instructions, but i did find pictures.

  10. #10
    Super Member butterflywing's Avatar
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    http://www.osv.org/explore_learn/whatisit.php

    look at the 6th image down. a very good example.

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