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Thread: Splitting batting into thirds for easier quilting?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jingle View Post
    Trying to keep the backing from getting caught in the stitching would be hard for me. If I were to try this I would have to think very hard about it.
    Good luck and I hope it works for you.
    I would roll up the backing and front together while quilting the middle section. That roll could be pinned or clamped if you like.
    Mavita - Square dancer and One Room School Teacher

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mea12 View Post
    I would like to quilt my giant king in horizontal straight rows but don't feel it will be easily done on my 9" harp machine. I thought about cutting the batting into thirds across the width of the batting and sandwiching/basting that middle section first. then using fusible batting tape to join the top third and bottom third? That way I'd not have as much bulk under the harp when working that middle section while trying to sew straight lines across the width of the quilt. Does this seem feasible? And if so, any precautions/tips for me?
    Here's today digest instructions on splitting batting ...

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  3. #3
    Super Member mike'sgirl's Avatar
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    The visible tape works well and would think that as long as you quilt over it sufficiently. Good luck with your project and make to show it to us.

  4. #4
    rtm
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    I am Marti Michell's husband. #5, Dunster is right about the "Machine Quilting In Sections" book. It was published in 2004 and still sells well. Can we call it "Classic?" When you can, use the gentle curve method to cut your batt when you are going to put it back together. The gentle curve avoids a weak line in the batt created by a straight line cut. Plug for a product! Our Fusible tape is the only one we have seen marketed for quilting that is made from non-woven fabric. All the others we have seen are knits. Non-woven is more difficult to feel in the quilt because it is thinner; stability is wanted, not the flex of knits, and non-woven delivers it; non-wovens are much less expensive than knits and our 2" width is much more suitable for gently curved cuts.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Maureen NJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtm View Post
    I am Marti Michell's husband. #5, Dunster is right about the "Machine Quilting In Sections" book. It was published in 2004 and still sells well. Can we call it "Classic?" When you can, use the gentle curve method to cut your batt when you are going to put it back together. The gentle curve avoids a weak line in the batt created by a straight line cut. Plug for a product! Our Fusible tape is the only one we have seen marketed for quilting that is made from non-woven fabric. All the others we have seen are knits. Non-woven is more difficult to feel in the quilt because it is thinner; stability is wanted, not the flex of knits, and non-woven delivers it; non-wovens are much less expensive than knits and our 2" width is much more suitable for gently curved cuts.
    Thanks for the info about the woven/non-woven fusible tape. Did not know that. I have your wife's book and it has so much valuable information in there. I plan on use her method on a sampler quilt. My thought is to divide and cut batting into 2/3 and 1/3 but leave quilt top and backing alone. Quilt is about 100" x100". My question, which I don't recall seeing addressed anywhere, is how do you get the quilted section taught (?spelling) enough to hand baste the unquilted section to it. I use the Sharon Schamber method of hand basting. Thanks to everyone for any help you can give me.

  6. #6
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    I would get to some large tables (library, town hall, church hall), and let the quilted part hang over the edge, but caught by large clamps onto the edge of the table(s). Then the unquilted part could be pulled taut and clamped or taped to the other side of the table(s).
    Mavita - Square dancer and One Room School Teacher

  7. #7
    Senior Member Maureen NJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maviskw View Post
    I would get to some large tables (library, town hall, church hall), and let the quilted part hang over the edge, but caught by large clamps onto the edge of the table(s). Then the unquilted part could be pulled taut and clamped or taped to the other side of the table(s).
    Now why didn't I think of that. I clamp small baby quilts and pin baste that way but my mind was just set on the boards and Sharon Schamber's basting method. Thanks. Also thanks for the correct spelling of taut. I knew it didn't look right! LOL.

  8. #8
    Super Member JeanieG's Avatar
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    I use this method a lot! I use the school glue method. I leave the backing all in one piece and mark the batting with a L and R after I cut the sides off - so I know how to reattach them. Put the L/R on both pieces of the batting where you cut the batting off. I do not quilt to the end of the batting - I leave around 4" on each side and pin on the edge so I don't go over the 4". This way there is enough room to attach the fusible interfacing that I use to put the batting back together. I have used the whipped stitching also, but prefer the fusible interfacing. I buy a yard, and cut it into 1" to 1 1/2" strips and just iron it on. I hope this makes sense. I roll up the edges of the loose piece of flimsy and backing to keep it out of the way, usually not a problem.
    "You have enough quilts made when your soul is filled, your creativity satisfied and your fingers just won't work anymore."

  9. #9
    Senior Member maxnme01's Avatar
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    WOW - great idea. This surely would reduce the bulk on a standard home sewing machine. I'll give it a go! Thanks
    Keep smiling, it makes others wonder what you're up to!

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