Is there a trick to matching seams?
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Carolina, just south of Charlotte
Posts: 425
Absolutely! I love these pins! My seam matching improved dramatically when I discovered "fork" pins. Of course, you still need to nest the seams. And be careful. Fork pins are VERY sharp!
#22
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,659
For starters - I wash all my washable fabrics before cutting them so there is little or no shrinkage when pressing the pieces or units.
Then I make sure that my pieces are the right size to fit together properly. Occasionally there is an error in the directions or the template. (How do I know this!)
I usually nest the seams. For units with sharp angles in them like the triangle in a square - I mark the pieces where the "points" are and match those points. And pin. I don't pin a lot.
I am working on a piece where many many seams come together - the seams are pressed open - I have resorted to hand basting to reduce slippage. There is still some slippage - and I'm living with it - but it does help.
Then I make sure that my pieces are the right size to fit together properly. Occasionally there is an error in the directions or the template. (How do I know this!)
I usually nest the seams. For units with sharp angles in them like the triangle in a square - I mark the pieces where the "points" are and match those points. And pin. I don't pin a lot.
I am working on a piece where many many seams come together - the seams are pressed open - I have resorted to hand basting to reduce slippage. There is still some slippage - and I'm living with it - but it does help.
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hudson Valley,NY
Posts: 238
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 102
I struggled also with matching and two years into quilting it finally is working. I am getting more accurate with time and I nest and I almost never fail. I just seems to me that you have to find the technique that works for you and the more you do it the easier it gets. Looks so easy on the tutorials.
#25
Some are better than others. I know you'll want to know the brand but it isn't Dritz. The Dritz seem too thick. Another little "trick", after you sew the seam, you can unpick the worst offenders and just redo a couple of stitches, not the whole row.
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,198
I don't know if they're any good, but I do know that they are expensive. Just use two pins, one on either side of the seam.
If you have created your blocks correctly, the points will be at the 1/4" seam allowance; however, no one ever makes every point perfectly. In order not to lose the points of your triangles, place a pin in the point where the stitches meet on one block, then into the second block (if there's also a point there). Do that in every point. Then, when you sew, make sure your needle is a couple threads outside the points (a scant seam), and sew from pin to pin. You must use a scant 1/4", because when you open your blocks, if the needle has gone exactly into the points, the thickness of the thread will take up a thread or two and the points will disappear.
If you have created your blocks correctly, the points will be at the 1/4" seam allowance; however, no one ever makes every point perfectly. In order not to lose the points of your triangles, place a pin in the point where the stitches meet on one block, then into the second block (if there's also a point there). Do that in every point. Then, when you sew, make sure your needle is a couple threads outside the points (a scant seam), and sew from pin to pin. You must use a scant 1/4", because when you open your blocks, if the needle has gone exactly into the points, the thickness of the thread will take up a thread or two and the points will disappear.
#29
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 1,231
By the time you're done doing a few like this, the first few have dried, and you can sew like a pro!!
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