Which thread for FMQ?
09-30-2016, 03:48 PM
#1
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Which thread for FMQ?
I usually hand quilt, and have my favorite thread for that use....but what to use for FMQ? I want to choose a thread that is strong and heavy so it can be seen and won't break under the stress of stipple stitching of FMQ. Any recommendation for a novice FMQer? Thanks....Jane Quilter
09-30-2016, 05:23 PM
#3
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Well there IS thread made specifically for hand-quilting, it's coated or glazed or something. I don't do much hand quilting. If I remember right, it's fairly thick and heavy. I do know you don't want to use it in your machine.
I agree, a 40# thread will show up nicely. I like Superior's King Tut.
I agree, a 40# thread will show up nicely. I like Superior's King Tut.
09-30-2016, 06:57 PM
#5
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Depending on your machine & the settings, you should be fine with not breaking the thread doing most FMQ.
That said, my absolute favorite is Aurifil. It is extra long staple Egyptian cotton, 2 ply & very low lint. It is the Cadillac of machine threads, in my opinion. A 40wt will show up very nicely, but if it's your first attempt at FMQ (you didn't say), I would probably stick with a matching 50wt so it doesn't show all the little flaws. Just like with hand quilting, it does take time to get the right pacing & build muscle memory to form even stitches whether on straight runs or going around curves. If you've already been practicing, please ignore the rest of my post ... but so often I see brand new FMQ'ers who pick a 28 or 40wt cotton (or even crazier, a shiny synthetic) in a contrasting color -- sometimes with different colors on the top & backing -- and they complain about how much they hate FMQ & go back to straight line quilting with a walking foot or hand quilting. Both of those are beautiful techniques, but I just feel like if someone is going to make the effort to give FMQ a try, why not try to set yourself up for success? Starting with something like an Aurifil 50/2 cotton in a matching color with the same thread top & bottom and a nice curvy meander -- after already having done a couple practice sandwiches -- is likely to produce an acceptable result. No, it's not going to be award-winning and I wouldn't plan on selling it to a customer. It's going to be a good practice piece that a family member or someone in need will absolutely cherish and a non-quilter would never find any fault with. But there is a night-and-day difference between my initial practice pieces, my first real quilt, my second quilt & so forth. Each one made significant gains. I now use a combination of different weight threads. It depends how far apart my quilting lines are. The farther apart my lines, the thicker my thread needs to be. And at a certain point, I have to downsize my thread because the thickness changes from decorative effective to sloppy mess as the lines get closer & closer together. Those are skills you learn with time & practice. For now, if this is your first or second FMQ quilt, I really would suggest sticking with a 50/2 cotton that largely matches your top, in both the top & bobbin. It will allow you to focus on your technique rather than spending countless frustrating hours ripping out stitches that would have otherwise been unnoticeable. Poorly formed stitches should always be removed & re-sewn, but tiny wobbles or little bits that are peeking through the top or back are part of the learning process, imho.
That said, my absolute favorite is Aurifil. It is extra long staple Egyptian cotton, 2 ply & very low lint. It is the Cadillac of machine threads, in my opinion. A 40wt will show up very nicely, but if it's your first attempt at FMQ (you didn't say), I would probably stick with a matching 50wt so it doesn't show all the little flaws. Just like with hand quilting, it does take time to get the right pacing & build muscle memory to form even stitches whether on straight runs or going around curves. If you've already been practicing, please ignore the rest of my post ... but so often I see brand new FMQ'ers who pick a 28 or 40wt cotton (or even crazier, a shiny synthetic) in a contrasting color -- sometimes with different colors on the top & backing -- and they complain about how much they hate FMQ & go back to straight line quilting with a walking foot or hand quilting. Both of those are beautiful techniques, but I just feel like if someone is going to make the effort to give FMQ a try, why not try to set yourself up for success? Starting with something like an Aurifil 50/2 cotton in a matching color with the same thread top & bottom and a nice curvy meander -- after already having done a couple practice sandwiches -- is likely to produce an acceptable result. No, it's not going to be award-winning and I wouldn't plan on selling it to a customer. It's going to be a good practice piece that a family member or someone in need will absolutely cherish and a non-quilter would never find any fault with. But there is a night-and-day difference between my initial practice pieces, my first real quilt, my second quilt & so forth. Each one made significant gains. I now use a combination of different weight threads. It depends how far apart my quilting lines are. The farther apart my lines, the thicker my thread needs to be. And at a certain point, I have to downsize my thread because the thickness changes from decorative effective to sloppy mess as the lines get closer & closer together. Those are skills you learn with time & practice. For now, if this is your first or second FMQ quilt, I really would suggest sticking with a 50/2 cotton that largely matches your top, in both the top & bobbin. It will allow you to focus on your technique rather than spending countless frustrating hours ripping out stitches that would have otherwise been unnoticeable. Poorly formed stitches should always be removed & re-sewn, but tiny wobbles or little bits that are peeking through the top or back are part of the learning process, imho.
10-01-2016, 03:52 AM
#6
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Pretty much what Bree said if this is the first time you've Fmq on a quilt.
That said, I use different threads for different reasons. For a quilt that's going to be used a lot and washed etc. I look for something strong, like Isacord (a strong polyester) or Aurifil (cotton). I've also successfully used Coats and Clark dual duty and their large spools of heavier weight machine quilting cotton as well as Star, Sulky and Mettler threads but they aren't my favorites for quilting everyday quilts. Generally I prefer Isacord or aurifil for ease of use and lower lint production.
For an art quilt or wall hanging I use whatever suits the design. By that I mean whatever thickness, or fiber (cotton, rayon, polyester,nylon etc.) willl give me the effects I'm looking for. I've even been known to use antique thread after first making sure it was strong enough to go through my machine.
Rob
That said, I use different threads for different reasons. For a quilt that's going to be used a lot and washed etc. I look for something strong, like Isacord (a strong polyester) or Aurifil (cotton). I've also successfully used Coats and Clark dual duty and their large spools of heavier weight machine quilting cotton as well as Star, Sulky and Mettler threads but they aren't my favorites for quilting everyday quilts. Generally I prefer Isacord or aurifil for ease of use and lower lint production.
For an art quilt or wall hanging I use whatever suits the design. By that I mean whatever thickness, or fiber (cotton, rayon, polyester,nylon etc.) willl give me the effects I'm looking for. I've even been known to use antique thread after first making sure it was strong enough to go through my machine.
Rob
10-01-2016, 10:10 AM
#9
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On my domestic machines I usually use Connecting Threads cotton thread as it comes in so many pretty colors and you can't beat the price. I've only done one real quilt on my long arm so far and I used 40wt poly machine embroidery thread. No issues what so ever and the quilting was beautiful.
Cari
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