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Thread: use of invisible thread

  1. #1
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    use of invisible thread

    I have a long arm machine and am trying to use invisible thread. this is the first time I have tried to use it and am having some problems. I have read that you need to have the tension loose and the thread will pull through the needle without any tension however, it keeps breaking. What do you do with the nylon sleeve that come with the thread. Does it just slip over the spool or do you thread the line through a hole in the mesh? Thanks for any help. I have two wall hangings to do and I would like to try this thread again.

  2. #2
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    Instead of using nylon invisible thread, have you considered using polyester invisible thead? I had a lot of trouble using nylon, so I did some research and found the poly invisible thread. I like it so much better. It doesn't break,it sews just like a regular thread. I think Sulky makes it. Hope it helps.

  3. #3
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    Also the poly invisible thread (from Superior Thread, at least, which is the only one I've tried so far) can be ironed over without melting. Comes in clear and dark 'smoke' colors.

  4. #4
    Super Member Just Me...'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by postal packin' mama View Post
    Also the poly invisible thread (from Superior Thread, at least, which is the only one I've tried so far) can be ironed over without melting. Comes in clear and dark 'smoke' colors.
    I prefer the Superior as well. I don't have problems with breakage with it, either.
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  5. #5
    Super Member Prism99's Avatar
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    What brand of thread are you using? I use YLI nylon monofilament in my domestic machine, both top and bobbin, with no problems. I believe the only other *great* brand of nylon monofilament thread is SewArt.

    Here is a link to a WONDERFUL article about invisible thread on the QB:
    http://www.quiltingboard.com/resources/article-87.html

    I haven't read through the entire article in detail, so I will mention here some of the things I do to make invisible thread work for me. (1) Loosen upper tension because nylon stretches under tension. (2) Wind bobbin slowly so thread is not stretched on the bobbin. Also fill bobbin only 3/4ths full because nylon can distort the edges of the bobbin if you overfill. Metal bobbins are less likely to distort than plastic bobbins, but still do not fill completely. (3) I have never had a problem with YLI nylon melting under an iron. (4) I have tried some polyester threads and found them more *visible* than YLI nylon. There may be a polyester thread that works just as well, but I haven't found it yet. (5) SewArt nylon monofilament is supposed to be slightly preferable to YLI because it is more of a matte finish; YLI has a little shine to it. SewArt wasn't available when I bought mine, which is why I went with YLI. (6) I place the net over the cone, then run the thread up through the center of the net. On my domestic machine, the cone is placed in a glass jar behind the machine and I run the thread through an "outrigger" before threading as usual. My "outrigger" is just a plastic bar about 6 inches long with a big hole in one end that slides over the spool pin and a small hole in the other end through which I run the thread. Most people use a cone holder instead. The point is that the cone thread needs to feed upwards out of the cone into a "guide" that will position it reasonably for feeding through the machine.

    Hope this helps!

  6. #6
    Super Member Deborahlees's Avatar
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    Invisible poly thread is great on a quilt that has such mixed colors "nothing" would be right.....
    this is a link to Superior....http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/category/?q=polyester+invisible
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  7. #7
    Power Poster dunster's Avatar
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    In general I prefer poly monofilament to nylon. You don't run the thread through a hole in the net. You may have to move the longarm slower than usual, especially if going right to left. Check your thread (by trying to snap it with your hands) to see how strong it is; nylon thread sometimes becomes brittle and breaks easily, and if that's the case you won't be able to use it. Also check the thread path, including the needle, for any burrs or hang-ups. I'm assuming that the breakage is on top - are you also using it in the bobbin?

  8. #8
    Super Member ckcowl's Avatar
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    the problem with nylon thread with the long-arm is the machine is a (high-speed) machine- it stretches & breaks the thread easily-in order to make it work you will really have to slow the machine down ALOT.
    the mesh nets generally just go over the thread spool to keep it from unraveling- as it comes off the spool. with my long arm if using a thread net the thread comes up through the top of the net- to the first thread guide which on my machine is directly above the spool pin
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  9. #9
    Super Member patchsamkim's Avatar
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    I don't have a long arm machine, but with my regular machine, and my brother quilting machine, I only use the nylon in the top, regular thread in the bobbin, top tension is looser than usual, thread is off the machine, on a cone stand, or in a jar, not on a horizontal holder, needs to be vertical. I don't use the mesh net. Also I use a fine needle, #10 or smaller and make sure it is a sharp needle, not a universal. Hope you are able to get the thread to cooperate. I am wanting to try the invisible polyester from Superior threads.

  10. #10
    Senior Member donna13350's Avatar
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    If your thread is snapping, then your tension is set too tight..or you're using the wrong needle....watch for where the thread breaks...that will give you a clue as to tension or needle...but just keep trying...play with the tension and different needles, and you'll get there!

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