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Thread: When you sew your binding on...

  1. #11
    Senior Member kristakz's Avatar
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    I cut mine 2 1/2" wide. And sew with a "wide 1/4" seam". That means (to me) that rather than a scant seam, I go about the same distance the other way so I have slightly more than 1/4" seam in the end. probalby almost 3/8, now that I think about my trimming activity (I attach binding, then trim).

  2. #12
    Power Poster MadQuilter's Avatar
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    I trim my sandwich after the binding has been attached to the sides. Usually, I leave a bit of extra batting past the quilt top so my binding is nice and full. The seam allowance is more than 1/4 - whatever the distance to my walking foot is - I never measured.
    Martina
    Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Fabric!

  3. #13
    Super Member sew_Tracy's Avatar
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    I sew my binding to the front and also use the edge of the walking foot. I hand stitch to the back for I cannot sew a straight line
    From the artist formerly known as Missus Fear...Hi, my name is Tracy and I am a hobbyaholic.
    http://www.quiltingboard.com/blogs/m...ear-79671.html

  4. #14
    Super Member PaperPrincess's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deborahlees View Post
    Depending on the size of the quilt I have sewn it on the front with a 1/4" seam then pulled to back. That way if I need to do any fudging at all it is on the back. I either use glue, pins or clips to hold binding in place and then stitch on the top in the ditch.....when done go to back and do some hand work if necessary to catch anything that was not caught....... I would also strongly suggest doing a couple samples on what IS COMFORTABLE for you to handle....
    Again there are not any Quilt Police,......1/4" or 3/8" front or back....what ever works for you and this quilt...the next one could be totally different...
    This is what I do too, for quilts with cotton tops and bottoms and Warm & Natural batting. I cut the strips 2 1/4". After I sew it to the front wit a 1/4" seam, I press it to set it, then press it so the binding is pressed back, then press it a 3rd time with the binding folded over. Sounds like it would take a lot of time, but it's not that bad. If I do this, I usually don't even pin and don't have any skipped areas.
    "I do not understand how anyone can live without one small place of enchantment to turn to."
    Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings

  5. #15
    Super Member Prism99's Avatar
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    How wide your ideal seam allowance would be depends on how wide you cut your binding strips and how thick your batting is. As a rule-of-thumb, when I cut 2.5" strips I sew a 3/8" seam on the binding. My typical batting is Hobbs 80/20. If you are using a very thin batting, you might want a larger seam allowance; if using a very thick batting, a narrower seam allowance.

    Be aware that the size of the seam allowance affects the look of the finished binding. I would not sew more than a 3/8" wide seam allowance because anything wider than that makes the binding too wide for my taste. For show quilts, narrower bindings are preferred, which typically requires cutting 2-1/4" strips and using a 1/4" seam allowance.

  6. #16
    Power Poster Jingle's Avatar
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    I recently cut mu binding strips 2-1/2" wide, fold in half, press and sew on the front using 3/8" seam and hand stitch to the back. Turns out perfect. I like the hand sewn better. Good luck, some on here machine sew it.
    Another Phyllis
    This life is the only one you get - enjoy it before you lose it.

  7. #17
    Super Member HillCountryGal's Avatar
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    Copy & pasted this from an e-mail I received today (Aboutquilting.com)

    While We're Talking About Binding Janet Wickell


    One of my biggest binding pet peeves concerns the binding instructions that many quilting authors have traditionally written. I've cautioned quilters on this since I began writing quilting books in the 1990s, but still see incorrect instructions everywhere.

    The Real Deal

    When preparing to miter binding at the corner of a quilt, the point where you should stop and backstitch must be a distance equal to the finished width of the binding.

    Nearly all patterns tell you to stop 1/4" away from the quilt's edge. That's correct if you are sewing a 1/4" finished width binding, and that width is a must if quilt blocks surround the outer edges of the quilt, since they have a built-in 1/4" seam. What if you have a border, where the width of binding is arbitrary? I've made lots of miniature quilts with 1/8" bindings, and larger quilts with 1/2" bindings. Try stopping 1/4" from the edge of those quilts and you'll end up with a messy (if not impossible to construct) mitered corner. Stop sewing at the point that matches your finished binding width and the miter will create itself, almost automatically.

  8. #18
    Super Member Prism99's Avatar
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    I believe Sharon Schamber demonstrates how to glue-baste binding in her Youtube tutorials:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PE0Yq9iGlc
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3vHI7rgZpw
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W--xgi4nux8

  9. #19
    Power Poster dunster's Avatar
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    Trick question! I sew a scant 1/2" in from the edge of the batting, but 1/4" in from the edge of the binding. That gives me a nice full 1/2" binding, using 2.5" double fold. Confused yet?

  10. #20
    Super Member hopetoquilt's Avatar
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    Machine sewing to th front and then hand stitching to the back is the easiest method for me. On a big quilt, it takes about 45 minutes per side of the quilt to complete and looks really nice when done. I can watch television and bind and I find it very relaxing and one of my favorite parts of quilting.

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