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Flying Geese – not new, but good tips for success.
This method uses 1 rectangle and 2 squares. It is perhaps the easiest and most stable method for newbies and those who don’t want to tackle sewing triangles on the bias. (That would be me!) Whatever size you want, the size of the square should be cut ½” larger than desired finished height of the unit. The rectangle will be cut the same height and the length is 2 X the height – ½” (two times the height minus a half inch). Eg: Cutting a 3” sq and a 5 ½” x 3” rect. finishes to a 2 ½ x 5” FG. Align the square on the rectangle at one end and mark a diagonal line. See end to learn to do them without marking! This seems to be the important part: Sew seam just “inside” of the diagonal line by a thread or two. Picture #1: True diagonal line in blue. Sewing line in red (very exaggerated). This allows the square’s corner go right up to the rectangle’s corner with no pull or stretch when folded. Don't trim any corner at this point especially not the base rectangle so that you can line up the square corner accurately. If I trimmed both corners I always had trouble squaring the goose when folding on the seam line. Picture #2 Picture #1 [ATTACH=CONFIG]116425[/ATTACH] Picture #2 [ATTACH=CONFIG]116426[/ATTACH] |
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Hold corner and press without burning fingies! Pictures #3 & #4
Now you can trim off the rectangle’s corner if you want! I leave them on for stability unless square is white and base will show through. Extra bulk doesn't seem to matter. Now do second side, flip over and square up! Picture #5, #6 & #7: NOW trim if you want! Now to do it without marking: Have a line (I use tape, red at the scant 1/4", green lined up with the needle) on the bed of your machine. Prepare your "goose": Pictures #8: At the machine line up the start of the piece just to the left of the needle (I've taken off the foot so you can see this.) with the end point just to the left of the green tape. Go ahead and sew making sure the ending point stays just to the left of the tape. Chain on another one and you're off! I know it take a little more fabric but the result are worth the extra buck or two when you are starting. When you gain confidence and are more comfortable there are many other methods out there. Any questions? Contact me by PM. Picture #3 [ATTACH=CONFIG]116441[/ATTACH] Picture #4 [ATTACH=CONFIG]116442[/ATTACH] Picture #5 [ATTACH=CONFIG]116466[/ATTACH] Picture #6 [ATTACH=CONFIG]118704[/ATTACH] Picture #7 [ATTACH=CONFIG]118708[/ATTACH] Picture # 9 [ATTACH=CONFIG]118709[/ATTACH] Picture #10 [ATTACH=CONFIG]118710[/ATTACH] Picture #11 [ATTACH=CONFIG]118711[/ATTACH] |
Good Tut! Thanks for the help.
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Thank you for this tutorial :D:D:D
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thanks,you make it look easier
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You "done" good! Yea!
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Great, Kitsie.
I hadn't made Geese for a long time, and didn't realize the mathematical mentioned, but it will be better in that I will know how to make different size geese. thanks! |
Thanks! I had done FG this way, but not figured the math to resize. That will come in handy. Thanks again.
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thank you, thank you, thank you.
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I use this method, but I also sew on the other side of the cutting line and get "mini" HSTs -- no wasted fabric and a collection of HSTs for use in other projects. :)
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