I don't know if I can find it, or if it is available somewhere else, but there is/was a pattern that uses smocking to make the top of a hat. It looks like a brimmed hat, regular not a top hat, or ball cap that men wear, but the fitting and shaping comes from the smocking that makes the crown of the hat. A Lady on a tour with me had one and she gave the pattern- that was years ago. One seam down the back. Made out of Velvet it was really striking, but the denim one was cute too.