When I joined my guild one of the first things I learned from members was to use titanium top stitch needles and to match the needle to the thread. Most all the members use Superior brand threads. I was using a universal size 90/14 and thought a universal meant for all sewing. The best knowledge of needles and thread is from Superior Company. I have been using their needle and thread charts and have never had a tension or thread issue on my machine that wasn't self error or machine problem.