Originally Posted by
Mickey2
I bought this machine because of two blogs; Sewalot and ArchaicArcane; both bragging something awful of this model, and gave lots of hints and help on how to fix it up. I spent hours with Tammi's tension video, talking me through all the small uncertainties the written manual left me with. I so liked the idea of one of those black shiny machines with gold decals too.
I think my top tension mechanism is working as it should; I can at least turn it from 0 to 0, just slightly off sync towards number 1. For bobbin tension, it's sort of a guess, and a case trial and error. I used Gütermann sew it all polyester, set top tension between 4 and 5 and test sewed and adjustend the tiny screw until it stitched fine. I have fiddled with tension since then, particluralry when using top stitch thread, in one case it was like I could not get top tension tight enough; loops under.
Sorry for necromancering a thread. It looked like you still hadn't sorted it, and my ears were burning.
Was I bragging about the 201? LOL! I might have been. I do love how well built and quiet they are. Now, that said, when you're getting loops under the fabric, there are a couple of things that come to mind - tension is too low on the top. It's not always the tensioner though - missing a guide can do it. As long as you're
fully flossed into the tension disks, threaded right and rebuilt based on my tension video - you should be able to FMQ in the 3 - 4 range. 7 is way too high. What is the result you get from the "Fast Tension test" on my YT channel?
Bobbin tension is not a guess. Technically, for any given thread (so of course, it may have to change from thread to thread) on a 201 and most of the vintage machines, tension should be about 1oz. To test this though, the bobbin case would need to be removed from the machine. I think Rain (VSSMB) has a tutorial on removing it. It's on my list to make a video of that process. Also TFSR.org has bobbin maintenance in their sewing machine manual for the 201.
The other thing I'm wondering - when you disassembled the tensioner, did you remove the pin that releases tension when you lift the presser foot? I didn't really touch a lot on it in either dis-assembly video but it can sometimes bind up if not clean, causing the tension discs to stay apart when the presser foot is down.
Also, there's something about FMQ and a hopping foot that seems to make me forget to put the presser foot down at all - which of course nests below every time.
The loops - are they when you FMQ only, or all the time? If during FMQ, I'm wondering if the loops are actually eyelashing. Can you post a couple of pics?
Originally Posted by
Mickey2
New needle too, though I'm never sure of what is ideal for the purpose, I have a size 12 in a the moment. <snip> Tension is an issue I seem to be working on all the time.
Go up to a 90 or even a 100 for a sew-all thread for FMQ. Typically, I will go up a needle size from regular sewing when doing FMQ (or on my frame). The size of the eye seems to be friendlier to the thread with the direction changes as is the greater strength of the thicker needle. I FMQ (rarely if ever anymore, but I do demo it on vintage machines) with a 90 or a 100 topstitch needle.
Tension is one of those things that sometimes we fight and fight and fight with and then it just clicks and becomes like an unconscious thing. The reason I talk so much about tension on my site is because it was my biggest problem in my early sewing years and I see every day that it's also easily 90% of the reason I eventually see a machine in for service and most times there's nothing wrong with the machine.
Originally Posted by
Sewnoma
Ah, you're right, my bobbin on that machine is in front of the needle. I thought it was the 90-degree turn that was the concern with FMQ on horizontal bobbins - that part is still the same, but you're right, it's coming in with a different path.
The direction of the needle has changed too.
The same orientation on a 201 if the needle was facing forward would put the bobbin behind the needle - like an Elna Supermatic for instance. Still a 90 degree turn. And the tip of the hook on your machine also probably comes around behind the needle. Actually, there's no probably about it. That's the only way it could make a stitch if the needle goes in with the flat to the back, which effectively makes the difference between the 201 and the newer machines moot.
Originally Posted by
Cari-in-Oly
My hands are getting bad enough that free motion work on anything bigger than a baby quilt is getting too hard that's why I want a frame, and possibly a long arm set up.
Make sure you learn good posture right out of the gate. I found that frame quilting just "changed" the pain. Instead of my shoulders, it's in my elbows and neck. A shaky or weak hand day is still a non-quilting day for me.
Originally Posted by
Mickey2
I have almost perfect stitches, a couple of places it slips of I go too fast; then loops appear or it skips stitches in a bend. It's all in the speed and movement.
I have the feed dogs lowered, pretty tight upper tension (closer to 7), and when I aim for low speed and have fairly small stitches it stitches fine. I need more practice.
This is what's making me think it's eyelashing. Eyelashing can sometimes be ALL about speed - tension plays a smaller part here. 7 is so high though. Skipped stitches can be 1 of 3 things usually with FMQ - tension too tight, hand movement too fast for the speed of the machine or the needle deflected too far away from the hook for the stitch to be formed. This last can be mitigated with a thicker needle that doesn't flex as easily. Thread breaks are usually tension too high, burr in the needle eye, needle plate or elsewhere in the thread path or moving the fabric at the wrong time/too fast.