Originally Posted by
quiltsfor
I've heard when you move your quilt/fabric when FMQuilting faster than the needle is going, you can bend or break the needle, so perhaps this is what you are finding.
I agree. I think size of needle and the purpose you're using it for are actually more important than brand, although using a quality, reputable brand is always best.
I use Organ size 12 or 14 for piecing on my Brother 1500. It's a high speed machine, so I use top stitch needles, which have a longer groove on the side of the needle. This groove protects the thread from too much friction as the needle moves in and out of the fabric. The top stitch needle also has a larger eye, which makes it easy to thread.
For my Innova longarm, I use Groz-Beckert size 18 needles. As Quiltsfor said, when you're quilting, there is some pushing and pulling going on and as the needle goes in and out of the quilt, you have a greater chance for needle flex, which can cause skipped stitches and broken needles. (On a DSM it's the quilt you're pushing & pulling, on a longarm it's the machine head.) A size 18 needle (which is the industry standard for longarms) is thicker and heavier than a size 12 or 14, so there is less needle flex.
If you're quilting and getting broken needles, I suspect the breaks are due to either the machine being out of time, or a result of needle flex. You can test the needle flex theory by using a larger needle. If you're only sewing, not quilting, and you're getting breaks, it's probably a timing issue.