quiltingcandy

Ever so often my Janome will do that. The upper thread jumps out of the path - I don't know how it does it, or why, but it does. (Usually when I am in a hurry.) And even though this machine has been with me for five years, I still keep the manual near the machine to check back and make sure I have set the tension right, or double check the path. I have even missed a step threading the bobbin. (I have 3 machines that I use regularly and all three thread differently.)
A friend of mine called me once because she was so frustrated with her embroidery machine, the thread kept breaking, and I asked if her thread on top of the machine was in the right position, (laying flat or or upright if it on larger thread holder) and that was all it was. She sews a lot and other machine it makes no difference but on the embroider machine it does. I sewed for years on a 15-91 Singer, and it made no difference which direction the bobbin went in. I was amazed that it mattered on my new machines. And I think it was this board that pointed it out, I joined after buying my Janome with the drop in bobbin. I took the classes and learned how to put it in, but ever so often I thought it was misbehaving and it turned out, I had put the bobbin in wrong.
Good luck, I hope that it is just user error and nothing serious.

Bree123

Ask away. We all love quilting way too much not to share ideas.

A few things to take into consideration:
1) Is your practice sandwich made with the same type of fabrics & identical batting to your actual quilt? If not, be sure to do that.
2) It would help to share what kind of fabric, batting & thread you are using. I am most familiar with 100% cotton quilts, so my advice is primarily based on that.

Here's what I would check (note: all this advice is for newbie quilters; it is not the only way to do things, just the easiest):
1) Use 100% cotton thread in the top & bobbin.
2) Check your threading. Cut the top thread by the spool & pull down from by the needle. This will "floss" your thread run in case there are teeny little fuzzies that might be caught. Also, honestly, I'd try filling & threading a new bobbin... especially if your bobbins are plastic as those can get warped & cause issues. And apply machine oil as directed in your owner's manual. For my classic Singer, I have a place in the upper thread run & the bobbin case that I oil. For my Bernina, it's only the bobbin case that gets oiled. I oil my machine every time I put in a new bobbin.
3) Check your settings. For straight line quilting, I use a Walking Foot (or you might have a machine with Dual Feed), set my stitch length to 3mm, straight stitch, center position, with a top tension of 3 & feed dogs are UP. For free motion quilting, I use a Darning Foot (also called a Free Motion Foot), set my stitch length to 0, straight stitch, center position, with a top tension of 1-2 & feed dogs are DOWN. Note: depending on the machine, some people may work with the feed dogs up & find their machine does better. I personally would not ever set my stitch length longer than 0 with the feed dogs down; there is nothing to move the fabric but you.
3) If the "bird's nests" are forming (or thread is breaking) when you are going around curves, you need to practice matching your hand speed with the speed of the machine. There are two ways to do this. You can either keep the machine at a slow speed & slow down your hands moving the fabric, or my preference is to slightly speed up both the machine & my hands while going around the curve. I prefer that because I have difficulty producing a smooth curve at a slow pace. Marking your quilt helps, but there really is no substitute for practice. You're going to be ripping out some of the stitching around curves a number of times before it starts to come together for you.
4) Use the right needle for the job. For straight lines, I prefer a Microtex/Sharp needle, but a Topstitch also works nicely. For curvy lines, you can't beat a Quilting needle. It is especially designed with a rounded tip that helps the stitches form nicer & reduces problems when going around curves.
5) Set yourself up for success. There are fewer problems the wider the base is around your needle. Cabinets are great, but my first set-up was Whitman's chocolate boxes & one shirt box that I used masking tape to attach around the bed of my machine (yes, I made the sacrifice to eat all those chocolates in order to benefit my quilts . Machinger's gloves or something else that's a bit rubbery make a huge difference. You can cut the fingers off rubber gloves or use those Secretary's fingers that they sell in office supply stores instead of the gloves -- or there is this tacky hand cream that helps. Any one of those options make a difference. Also, if you already invested in a Supreme Slider (or something similar), make sure that your feed dogs are DOWN. Feed dogs will chew up the Slider & you'll mostly end up stitching a nest in place.

If none of that helps, I would wonder if perhaps my machine needs service. But I think that's a little unlikely since you said your practice sandwiches keep turning out fine.

Keep working at it. And maybe adjust your deadline. I know what it's like to feel that pressure to finish something brand new within a week. It makes it really hard to be successful. Quilting, especially FMQ, is all about rhythm -- knowing your machine & figuring out how to work with it. I hate having to tell people I need an extra week or two, but the reality is that quilting takes time & that extra week or so can mean all the difference between a family heirloom and a tangled mess.

meyert

I am sorry you are having problems.. but I have that same machine and whenever it gives me problems its because the thread somehow comes out of the little take up lever. I don't how it comes out - I must bump it or something

If you took it in for servicing and told them about your problem - they would definitely help you out. But then you said the one place is gone so you may not be very close for servicing.

I would check the threading - when a machine isn't threaded correctly it can really cause problems.

I too wonder what batting and fabric you are using. Is you practice sand which the same as your quilt?

I wish I could help more

Austinite

I do straight line quilting with a walking foot and also FMQ all with poly batting, it's not the super puffy kind, it's the one by the warm company. I doubt it's your batting. I think if you've gone thru all the previous suggestions like new needle, rethread, etc then make some practice sandwiches out of scraps or some little baby blankets if you know anyone expecting, use the same fabric and batting types that you've been using as others suggested, and practice practice practice. I recommend a silly movie in the background or music, have a cup of tea or delicious adult beverage and have fun with it! When you feel yourself getting stressed out then it's time to take a break. Good luck!

Garden Gnome

also, I think I read that you were stitching in the ditch. Would you consider just quilting in straight lines, only one direction? maybe diagonally, across the quilt? This would eliminate the issue of puckering where the lines cross. You may as well make it as easy on yourself as you can. I would hate for you to be turned off quilting forever due to this.

Tartan

I have been quilting for over 30 years and lines that cross over already stitched lines, still give me trouble. I find my Machingers gloves help and I make a frame with my hands around the needle gently pulling outwards when I come to an intersection. It may be time to reevaluate your quilting design. Can you SITD lines one way and instead of SITD the opposite way, quilt little motifs between the lines?

jmoore

Sorry to hear of your troubles, I'm sure it is frustrating... I FMQ mostly smaller projects on my 6600 but I have to crank my tension way up between 7 and 8 to get a nice even stitch. Also, arre you bringing your bobbin thread to the top when you start?

justflyingin

I am going to suggest something--take it or leave it.

I had a 7700 and now have an 8900.

Make sure when you are quilting that the thickness of the quilt doesn't bunch up and push the presser foot lever "up" slightly--not enough so that it doesn't sew, but enough so that it doesn't sew right. I have exactly what you described when the presser foot isn't 'hard' against the fabric. Of course, I didn't notice it at first. Only when I was done and looked underneath and saw exactly what you are describing-very loose and comes out just like a opening a feed bag.)

This would not happen on your samples as they are small. It happens when you have lots of fabric back behind the needle and bunching up and pushing the lever up.

So, my advice...check for that.

The solution...be very, very aware of how much thickness is backing up and pushing against the presser foot lever (the black thing). Keep pushing the quilt down and try to keep the thickness of the quilt flat in the area all around where you are sewing or where the presser foot lever might catch on it.

Lady Diana

You are not a bother to us, this is why we are here......
I have numerous Janome machines. the 6600 is an incredible machine!
Change your needle to a 90/14 topstitch needle. It sound like your machine thread is not "locking up" with the bobbin thread, thus the top thread will just come out. Also, are you using your accufeed foot? It is like a walking foot, only it fits directly on your needle shaft? Rethread your machine, change the needle to the 90/14 topstitch. I hope this works. It is sooooooo frustrating to have to take out stitches, we have all done that more than ten times....you are on the right track for getting it done. One other question, are you pulling on the quilt this can cause skipped stitches or not locking with the bobbin thread. Since you were able to pull the thread string, it sounds like the needle is not going down far enough to catch the bobbin thread. Make sure your bobbin thread is coming off the bobbin in the right direction. Also, there maybe suggestions in your manual on thread nesting in the bobbin. BTW the 90/14 topstitch needle makes a larger needle hole so the needle and thread can get down to the bobbin area. let us know how you are doing.

illinois

When I come to those intersections, I leave the needle down and tug on the intersection just a bit. Seems to straighten out the fabric and works in that bit of extra to avoid the puckering. I do straight line SID with a walking foot. I second that suggestion to notice that you have put the presser foot lever down if you are FMQing. My expertise with FMQing is not good but I have "best" luck if I leave the feed dogs up so I feel that I have better control of the movement and, even then, my FMQing leaves much to be desired. Good luck.