Welcome to the Quilting Board!

Already a member? Login above
loginabove
OR
To post questions, help other quilters and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our quilting community. It's free!

Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst ... 5 6 7 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 88

Thread: Cleaning and Reviving furniture(Sewing cabinets)

  1. #51
    Super Member Cogito's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    1,013
    Quote Originally Posted by cabbagepatchkid View Post
    When you say "3-4 drops" of household ammonia how much of the other ingredients are you making up? Thanks!
    I didn't see the answer to this....I understand the ratio of 4 parts versus 1 part, but what is that total volume that you are adding a couple of drops to?
    The expert's mind has no room to learn while the beginner's mind is free to know everything....

  2. #52
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    147
    I always use a one/fourth cup measure as my 1 part
    1 cup of w vinegar 1 cup of boiled linseed, 1 cup mineral spirits, 1/4 cup denatured alcohol and 3-4 drops of household ammonia.

  3. #53
    Member jpete523's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    92
    Blog Entries
    2
    Glenn, I hope you can help. I'm refurbishing a mid-century Singer cabinet, you know, the good old particle board and laminate style. It had the requisite paint splatters, water rings, red nail polish, and something black and gummy. I've been able to clean it up satisfactorily using Howard's but there are lots of spots where the finish is completely gone. Some of it lifted while cleaning but there are spots where it was already gone. I'd like to remove all of the lacquer, my guess, and refinish it. My instincts tell me to use denatured alcohol but I'm not sure. I definitely don't want to sand it. What do you suggest I use to remove it? Then once removed should I use lacquer and, if so, do you recommend spray or brush on?

    You've always been so generous with your advice and I want to add my expression of gratitude. So ... Thank you!

    Jan

  4. #54
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,243
    Blog Entries
    1
    If the laminate is wood you can use alochol but if the finish is lacquer then you will need a stripper stuff with acetone in it. If the alochol works use it. Then when dry for several days you can apply a shellac finish( easier to repair if damaged in the future. Lacquer is hard to apply with a brush. You will need to spray if usiing lacquer. An oil based varnish can be brushed on with a good brush with no problems. I do not recommend water based poly to plastic looking for me. I do not think sanding is a very good idea. No problems with the questions I will answer them where ever they are posted. Glad I can help. Thank you so much my pleasure.
    Skip
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  5. #55
    Member jpete523's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    92
    Blog Entries
    2
    Thank you, Glenn. I pretty sure it is wood veneer. I can see distinct grainlines and there's at least one seam on the top side of the lid as well as some variations in the color. I'll start with the alcohol tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks again!

    Jan

  6. #56
    Junior Member sdhaevrsi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    226
    Glenn, do you need to put shellac on the wood before waxing with Briwax? I think the shellac is off the wood from my various cleanings. (By the way, I will have to order it online because we have none around where I live, either.) also, a question about the Briwax... You said Dark Mahogany or Dark Walnut would be fine, but I see nothing with those colors online, only Dark Brown, I think it was. Will that work? Thank you!
    ​Sheri

  7. #57
    Junior Member sdhaevrsi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    226
    P.S. Glenn, is there a particular shellac that is best for a novice to use?
    ​Sheri

  8. #58
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,243
    Blog Entries
    1
    You need to shellac before using the briwax. I would use the shellac you get from Lowes in a gt can. this will be fine for what you are doing. You can order shellac flakes and mix them with alcohol if you like but not needed. Don't worry about the name on the briwax if it says dark brown this will do fine.

    PS you want the clear shellac
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  9. #59
    Junior Member sdhaevrsi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    226
    Thank you!
    ​Sheri

  10. #60
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,243
    Blog Entries
    1
    You are most welcome.
    Skip
    Glenn W. Cleveland

Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst ... 5 6 7 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.