I didn't see the answer to this....I understand the ratio of 4 parts versus 1 part, but what is that total volume that you are adding a couple of drops to?

I always use a one/fourth cup measure as my 1 part
1 cup of w vinegar 1 cup of boiled linseed, 1 cup mineral spirits, 1/4 cup denatured alcohol and 3-4 drops of household ammonia.

Glenn, I hope you can help. I'm refurbishing a mid-century Singer cabinet, you know, the good old particle board and laminate style. It had the requisite paint splatters, water rings, red nail polish, and something black and gummy. I've been able to clean it up satisfactorily using Howard's but there are lots of spots where the finish is completely gone. Some of it lifted while cleaning but there are spots where it was already gone. I'd like to remove all of the lacquer, my guess, and refinish it. My instincts tell me to use denatured alcohol but I'm not sure. I definitely don't want to sand it. What do you suggest I use to remove it? Then once removed should I use lacquer and, if so, do you recommend spray or brush on?

You've always been so generous with your advice and I want to add my expression of gratitude. So ... Thank you!

Jan

If the laminate is wood you can use alochol but if the finish is lacquer then you will need a stripper stuff with acetone in it. If the alochol works use it. Then when dry for several days you can apply a shellac finish( easier to repair if damaged in the future. Lacquer is hard to apply with a brush. You will need to spray if usiing lacquer. An oil based varnish can be brushed on with a good brush with no problems. I do not recommend water based poly to plastic looking for me. I do not think sanding is a very good idea. No problems with the questions I will answer them where ever they are posted. Glad I can help. Thank you so much my pleasure.
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Thank you, Glenn. I pretty sure it is wood veneer. I can see distinct grainlines and there's at least one seam on the top side of the lid as well as some variations in the color. I'll start with the alcohol tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks again!

Jan

Glenn, do you need to put shellac on the wood before waxing with Briwax? I think the shellac is off the wood from my various cleanings. (By the way, I will have to order it online because we have none around where I live, either.) also, a question about the Briwax... You said Dark Mahogany or Dark Walnut would be fine, but I see nothing with those colors online, only Dark Brown, I think it was. Will that work? Thank you!

P.S. Glenn, is there a particular shellac that is best for a novice to use?

You need to shellac before using the briwax. I would use the shellac you get from Lowes in a gt can. this will be fine for what you are doing. You can order shellac flakes and mix them with alcohol if you like but not needed. Don't worry about the name on the briwax if it says dark brown this will do fine.

PS you want the clear shellac

Thank you!

You are most welcome.
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