Glenn, I have some antique pieces I'd love to try this on. For those with a high shine and scratches, is it possible to "French polish" the scratches out as you recommend for the clear coat on sewing machines? Also, if the finish is "varnish" instead of shellac or lacquer, should something different be tried? Thanks for this great info!

Pamela, you will need to test to see what the finsih is first. Take denatured alcohol on a small rag a place it on the finish in an area that will not show. If the finish melts it is shellac if not it is varnish or lacquer. You can only french polish with shallac. If the finish is shellac then yes you can polish the scratches out. If varnish or lacquer then try paste wax. I use Briwax in the color of the the wood. Varnish and lacquer is hard to repair.

Sorry for my slow mind but..... Are the instructions at the beginning of this thread for dissolving all the old crackled finish but leaving the nice patina? I know "cleaning" was discussed, just wanting to clarify that term in my head. I have several treadle cabinets that are in relatively nice shape (little scratching, veneer intact) but the finish is shot. Mine are all older Singer cabinets....probably 1920ish. Can I assume they were all varnished?

Don't "assume"! Glenn will give you better advice, but a few posts back he carefully explains how to tell the difference between shellac and lacquer or varnish. Determine first what you have, and then you'll know better how to proceed. But I suspect once you follow his method your cabinets will be beautiful!

Cogito. Singer cabinets were finished with shellac. To be sure take some denatured alcohol on a rag and apply to an area that will not be seen. If the finish melts with the alcohol it is shellac if not it is varnish or lacquer. You will find that the finish is shellac unless the cabinet has been refinished at sometime. Acetone will melt lacquer. If it is varnish lacquer or poly it will need to be strip.

Glenn, what do you recommend for repairing a broken piece? The wooden base to my Singer 12 split when the seller was lifting it to show me. (She said that she never lifts it by the harp --good-- always lifts by holding the base, and right then the back side/strip came off.) The piece fits back nicely and I can probably clamp it, but what kind of glue do you recommend?

I use hide glue( you know the kind melted in a hot glue pot) This is the proper glue to use on antiques. However you can by hide glue that you don't have to heat up in hardware stores. I think elmers makes a hide glue in a bottle. If you are not a purist you can use any high quality wood glue like Titebond etc. What ever glue you use apply thinly on both parts and clamp overnight. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth before it sets right after you clamp it. If you want to use the original hide glue you will have to order it from a woodworkers cat.

Thank you for the quick response!
Ellpea

I've finally reached the point with my machines where I can begin to focus on the wood. For my Singer 12, the base seemed to have a lot of CRUD on the finish... especially around the area where the clamp is from the base to the machine. There's something like a felt spool disk there which is totally nasty and stuck, and the finish around that is nasty as well. I worked with your solution #1 and graduated to the 0000 steel wool, but it seems like it's removing a lot of the finish and stain while still leaving some of the crud. I'm not sure if I should call this good, or move to a stronger steel wool. Any suggestions?

It is most likely the finish is shot. Cont cleaning until all grud is gone. Use lots of rags. The fine steel wool is fine but you may need one grit larger( medium). After you think it is clean let dry for a day or so then you can shellac if you want. Before you shellac you can stain the cabinet if you like.