libber

I was given a hardly used 401, however the heavy coating of smoke from 'living in the home of heavy smokers' appears to affect the tension wheels, etc. What can I use to get the film off ? Appreciate any suggestions. Libber

Mickey2

Microfiber cloths wringed up in mild sopy water. The tensioner can be picked appart and all shiny metal parts can soak in hot soapy water for they carefully dried and reassebled. I actually don't think tension disks should be affected very much, usually it's enough to just floss with a strip of cloth between them and check that they release when the presser bar lever is up and tighten when down. If you go over with a resin type car polish it will shine up like new. The 401 is not shellac, but a type of oil based paint. Any brownish staining can just as well come from sewing machine oil, and after several decades suprising amounts of grime and dirt will accumulate in any house. Is it in a case or a cabinet?

libber

It's in a cabinet, same vintage as my 201 cabinet, which has 3 drawers on right, small top drawer on left, complete with ink well space, designed to look like a desk in the late 40's, early 50's. The more recent cabinet has the right hand rounded door you open to get into the 2 boxes. I worked on the cabinet a while back, I need to do some more work, just don't do refinishing, I'd rather sew.

libber

Hi Mickey,
I used Krud Kutter for the smoke film, worked great. My question is, what polish should I use now that the smoke has been removed, since it is not shellac. Thanks, Libber

Cari-in-Oly

Any good car polish works, my personal favorite is Blue Magic TR3 Resin Glaze.

Cari

Mickey2

I use Auto Glym, it's good, but mostly because it's easy to buy here. If Cari's suggestion is easy for you to find, go for it. I use two main types; both resin type; one is whitish and have a certain amout of very finely milled grit that polishes the surface when it's applied. I have used it on almost anything with good result, including back cast iron machines with gold decals. However, the glaze (some brands call it sealer) which Cari mentions is the same stuff with out the grit. The grit has a microlevel abrasive action.

The clear no-grit stuff is probably better for vintage machines in the long run. Some glazes are suppose to last for years once applied, but it's as a second step after the basic polish. This is generally how it's recommended for cars and so far I haven't seen any adverse effect. It depens though, if you are very carefull with this machine I suspect a conservator would use a pure mineral based wax, like Renaissance Wax. I use my machines regularly, and I think the resin type polish is gentle enough to use and it gives a much more lasting protective layer than most waxes.

NopahDesertRat

You might try "totally Awesome" cleaner. It can be purchased at Dollar stores. It does wonders on that type of gunk. When I got my first feather weight, I was wiping it down and realized it had smoke film, took a lot of washing and wiping, the black color disguised it really well. I didn't know about TA cleaner then.

good luck, they are great machines.

Ethel

miriam

It generally take me 6 or 8 hours to fully service a 401 or a 500.

libber

Thanks Cari