Hello All Newbie Here..
02-16-2016, 11:32 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Round Rock,Texas
Posts: 6,135
Welcome from Texas.
Older machines are wonderful to sew with, mine are mostly treadles or 40-25 year old mechanical Berninas and much older Singers,White and a Pfaff.
Sorry that I don't have any experience with the Morse machines.
Sharon in Texas
Older machines are wonderful to sew with, mine are mostly treadles or 40-25 year old mechanical Berninas and much older Singers,White and a Pfaff.
Sorry that I don't have any experience with the Morse machines.
Sharon in Texas
02-17-2016, 05:27 AM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Hi, I see you haven't received any help on the machine. I could not find any free down load manual for your machine, I see there are a few pdf down loads for about $10. If you really feel you need it don't hesitate, I would search fleabay now and then, an original leaflet will turn up.
Don't be afraid to play around with the machine, just don't use brute force, at least not right away. I have to admit loosening the stop motion screw on the hand wheel can some times need a bit of effort.
For the oiling, lift up the top of the machine, it's often hinged in the back and you just lift it up in the front. Sometimes you need to loosen a screw or two to take the lid off. Open all hinged doors, unscrew needle plate (take off needle and presser foot first, it helps), inspect feed dogs (those toothed bits that move the fabric along when you sew), take out bobbin case and clean out any dust, fluff and bits of thread you can see. Do it one area at a time, it's easier to get things back in until you are familiar with the machine and usually you don't need to disasseble them all at once. This is normal maintanance routine when cleaning and oiling.
For oiling, turn the hand wheel by hand it will show you where you need to oil. Every moving part where metal touches metal needs a drop or two of oil. Play aournd with the levers and dials to detect moving parts. Plastic gears are to be oiled on vintage machines. Turn dials and especially those combinational push-turn tings can freeze up if the machine hasn't been used it ages. If you can pick them appart it helps with loosening and lubricating them. Some models doesn't have any oil points shown in the manual for these, and I have experimented with so called dry teflon lube on these. Any sewing machine oil will do, some oils like Tri Flow and Finish Line Cermic Wet lube can be an improvment on the basic oil, but don't try just any spray can oil or bike oil; spray can oils are too thin to work in the long run, and some bike oils have additives to make the oils sticky and stand up to all kinds of difficult conditions; take can make a mess hard to clean up again.
For the threading part; I couldn't find any threading guide on the web; there probably are though. Any similar Morse model will be a good help. For the top thread take this appoach; put the spool of thread on the spool pin; aim for the thread tensioner (usualy numbered from 0-9) ; look for guides and hooks along the way; thread goes between the two disks in there. Then aim for the take up lever, the arm that moves up and down when you turn the hand wheel. Next you aim for the guide on the needle bar and through the needle hole, keep looking for guides and hooks along the way. Each model can have a lightly different set up even if they look much the same.
Again; don't be afraid to play around with the machine, be worried if the motor starts to smoke or something like that, pedal goes out with a bang, ..., pedals can be sorted out, motors sometimes too; they often need regreasing and if the machine has been used a lot it might need new carbon brushes too. This is a link to the thread guide of a similar model to yours, should be of some help.
Don't be afraid to play around with the machine, just don't use brute force, at least not right away. I have to admit loosening the stop motion screw on the hand wheel can some times need a bit of effort.
For the oiling, lift up the top of the machine, it's often hinged in the back and you just lift it up in the front. Sometimes you need to loosen a screw or two to take the lid off. Open all hinged doors, unscrew needle plate (take off needle and presser foot first, it helps), inspect feed dogs (those toothed bits that move the fabric along when you sew), take out bobbin case and clean out any dust, fluff and bits of thread you can see. Do it one area at a time, it's easier to get things back in until you are familiar with the machine and usually you don't need to disasseble them all at once. This is normal maintanance routine when cleaning and oiling.
For oiling, turn the hand wheel by hand it will show you where you need to oil. Every moving part where metal touches metal needs a drop or two of oil. Play aournd with the levers and dials to detect moving parts. Plastic gears are to be oiled on vintage machines. Turn dials and especially those combinational push-turn tings can freeze up if the machine hasn't been used it ages. If you can pick them appart it helps with loosening and lubricating them. Some models doesn't have any oil points shown in the manual for these, and I have experimented with so called dry teflon lube on these. Any sewing machine oil will do, some oils like Tri Flow and Finish Line Cermic Wet lube can be an improvment on the basic oil, but don't try just any spray can oil or bike oil; spray can oils are too thin to work in the long run, and some bike oils have additives to make the oils sticky and stand up to all kinds of difficult conditions; take can make a mess hard to clean up again.
For the threading part; I couldn't find any threading guide on the web; there probably are though. Any similar Morse model will be a good help. For the top thread take this appoach; put the spool of thread on the spool pin; aim for the thread tensioner (usualy numbered from 0-9) ; look for guides and hooks along the way; thread goes between the two disks in there. Then aim for the take up lever, the arm that moves up and down when you turn the hand wheel. Next you aim for the guide on the needle bar and through the needle hole, keep looking for guides and hooks along the way. Each model can have a lightly different set up even if they look much the same.
Again; don't be afraid to play around with the machine, be worried if the motor starts to smoke or something like that, pedal goes out with a bang, ..., pedals can be sorted out, motors sometimes too; they often need regreasing and if the machine has been used a lot it might need new carbon brushes too. This is a link to the thread guide of a similar model to yours, should be of some help.
02-18-2016, 04:58 PM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Washington
Posts: 4,001
Very nice looking machine, you are starting at the right place, with the manual! follow the oiling and cleaning of the machine before you do much of any stitching, it is probably dry. they sew very nicely. Welcome.
03-11-2016, 01:18 AM
#19
Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1
Hi everyone, I just signed up and am happy to find you all.
I have a White Selec-tronic 769 that I have loved for 46 years now and just bought a Morse Apollo 6500 at an estate sale for my daughter. She just had her first baby and now wants to sew---YEA!!
I've been doing my homework on the Morse--it's beautiful---but the cam shaft has some problem and I am looking for the parts any ideas? In some of the material I found on the machine it was said that most of the parts are "standard." The reverse button is identical to the one on my White.
Any ideas or sources for parts or experience you can share are so very welcome. One not so lovely repairman said I could use it as a "boat anchor"
I have a White Selec-tronic 769 that I have loved for 46 years now and just bought a Morse Apollo 6500 at an estate sale for my daughter. She just had her first baby and now wants to sew---YEA!!
I've been doing my homework on the Morse--it's beautiful---but the cam shaft has some problem and I am looking for the parts any ideas? In some of the material I found on the machine it was said that most of the parts are "standard." The reverse button is identical to the one on my White.
Any ideas or sources for parts or experience you can share are so very welcome. One not so lovely repairman said I could use it as a "boat anchor"
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