Introducing "Shorty" - Wheeler & Wilson #9 Shortbed Handcrank
Sorry, had to at least try....
04-07-2015, 07:35 AM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Originally Posted by Macybaby
... and help me figure out what is needed to get my case fixed up.
1. Cathy was 100% correct, that little hole is the lock. After using tweezers to pull out the majority of the crud, and a q-tip wrapped with 0000 steel wool, and then a q-tip with oil to clean up, it actually works!!!! I even have a key that it likes. The lock is a pawl that when you move the case release to the left and turn the key it prevents the arm from coming back to release. TOO COOL!
2. that front board is only 3/8" inch thick and has a simple shape. I can make that and the parts lid very easily. Would you prefer to have me draft them up for you to make or just make it and send you the raw wood to mount and stain to match?
3. The left slide plate is a simple rectangle but it has a flat spring underneath similar to a 66. Again, I have the Slide steel and the spring steel so I can make you one if you want.
4. The machine release pin I can make as well, but I will need to disassemble mine to see how it is shaped inside and how the spring mounts/retains it. I will get to that probably tonight.
04-07-2015, 07:43 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,122
Sorry to hear about your dog - sure is tough when they get older and start having old age issues. I sure wish our pets were with us a lot longer.
As to the other stuff - I was wonder if it would be better to replace the whole bottom of the case instead of the broken off edges. Based on what yours looks like, what do you think?
For the wood - plans would be great - and a lot cheaper to ship (or email). the metal parts you'll need to make. But there is no rush on this - I know eventually you'll get to it - it's not like I haven't gotten more than enough to keep me busy for months (or years).
As to the other stuff - I was wonder if it would be better to replace the whole bottom of the case instead of the broken off edges. Based on what yours looks like, what do you think?
For the wood - plans would be great - and a lot cheaper to ship (or email). the metal parts you'll need to make. But there is no rush on this - I know eventually you'll get to it - it's not like I haven't gotten more than enough to keep me busy for months (or years).
04-07-2015, 07:46 AM
#15
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Originally Posted by Mrs. SewNSew
It's such a little cutie! I can't see the break in the base--is it bad? So you have no desire for a Featherweight--why? Is it because this is so much better? Or is it because you hate small sized machines?
Heck, I love small machines. (not toys, but real machines)
So, why would I NOT trade it for two featherweights?(sorry lovelyl)
(I confess, I would actually have to consider it if I was offered a 222 for it)
Because it is close to if not actually within the time frame of my collection
(W&W records after 1876 are all lost, but I suspect this machine was made between 1901 and 1903)
Because it is just as powerful as the full sized W&W #9 but is a the size of a featherweight.
Because you will find 500-1000 featherweights before you find one of these.
and finally, because it is a real 3:1 handcrank, which is not available for the 221/222
04-07-2015, 08:04 AM
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Originally Posted by Macybaby
Sorry to hear about your dog - sure is tough when they get older and start having old age issues. I sure wish our pets were with us a lot longer.
As to the other stuff - I was wonder if it would be better to replace the whole bottom of the case instead of the broken off edges. Based on what yours looks like, what do you think? .
As to the other stuff - I was wonder if it would be better to replace the whole bottom of the case instead of the broken off edges. Based on what yours looks like, what do you think? .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]516191[/ATTACH]
Here is the outside again. do you have the insert that the release pin goes into?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]516192[/ATTACH]
this is what it look like from the inside
[ATTACH=CONFIG]516193[/ATTACH]
and what it engages to hold the bed down
[ATTACH=CONFIG]516194[/ATTACH]
Last pic, the lid up close
[ATTACH=CONFIG]516195[/ATTACH]
04-07-2015, 09:50 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,122
It's not the bottom of the lid, but the bottom of the lower section I'm talking about. I agree it would be strange to do more to the lid other than replace the missing piece.
However, the lip of my base is busted off on three sides - it's only there on the short back end side. that's why I'm wondering if it may be best to removed what is there and start with a whole piece. It might be required anyway, so I can true up the edge to glue to.
I can't get my lid to latch unless I've very, very careful about getting it lined up correctly without the lip for it to rest on.
However, the lip of my base is busted off on three sides - it's only there on the short back end side. that's why I'm wondering if it may be best to removed what is there and start with a whole piece. It might be required anyway, so I can true up the edge to glue to.
I can't get my lid to latch unless I've very, very careful about getting it lined up correctly without the lip for it to rest on.
Last edited by Macybaby; 04-07-2015 at 09:54 AM.
04-07-2015, 10:26 AM
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,122
I'll need a trace of the outline of the base, and if possible, a profile of the edge. Hopefully DH already has a router bit with a close enough profile to use. I'll take more pictures when I get home.
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