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Thread: ISMACS says this is a 128? is it? + other things:

  1. #21
    Muv
    Muv is offline
    Senior Member Muv's Avatar
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    Kittywolf,

    I can't remember if you are the person who has dial -up and so can't watch videos easily online...

    Everything you need to know to get started with long bobbin machines is either on video on our Youtube channel (full threading instructions and tension adjustment) or on my blog (general tips, in particular about shuttles) - the links are below.

    Great to see you are enjoying yourself so much with the old machines!

  2. #22
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kittywolf13 View Post
    Thanks for all the wonderful in put, Arcaine! I kind of thought the metal but might be a knee press but the controller in the box doesn't appear to come out? So I didn't know that would work. Could I attach a foot pedal to see if it works? Or would that blow the controller?
    That's right, my first response (the one I deleted when I realised you had been into the cubby hole) had how to take the controller out. If you turn the box upside down, there should be 2 or 3 screws. remove those and it will come out. That said... without doing that, what moves when you put the knee lever in and turn as if you were sewing? (leave it unplugged for the moment)

    I don't think it would "blow" the controller, there's nothing electronic here. But I'm not sure what would happen, so I'd like to try the other way first.

    I'm out for the morning, delivering a computer network to a client, but when I get home, I will take that photo I promised.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  3. #23
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Muv, I need to take a peek at your videos. I've heard so many good things about them. I just get distracted easily! Lol. But yes I am enjoying them emensly. It's a lot of fun!

    Arcaine, I hadn't looked under the box since it was falling apart. Might need to take the bottom out any how so I'll take a peek at it one of these evenings and see if I can comendeer my father into helping Me re-glue it back together as well as take the controller out. At the moment I have a hand crank on it. So I'm not terriably interested in it being motorized, but it would be nice for it to work just in case you know? so I will try it. I assume I can buy a spare cable from sew-classic.
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle; Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight; my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758; Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66; Singer 99K Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  4. #24
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    OK,.. sorry I'm so late with the pics. Yesterday we got a blizzard and several inches of snow while I was out. I was beat by the time I made it home.

    Today I meant to take these pics 3 separate times, but forgot by the time I left the room. :-/

    Yes, I think the cord you need is this:
    http://shop.sew-classic.com/Cord-Sin...ORE-SCE122.htm
    I've always heard of it referred to as a "Single Lead" cord. It looks right.

    I always like my machines to work as intended, especially the knee levers, because they're a part of the case, whether I convert them or not.

    Therefore, for your viewing pleasure:
    This is what the controller looks like at rest:
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    What it looks like when the knee lever is actuated:
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    And here's the bottom of the case:
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    The 2 screws you see closest to the top (where the knee lever hole is) hold the mechanism in place. The other three hold the controller. You do end up having to take all 5 out when you take the controller, if memory serves.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  5. #25
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Wow. Yours is much much cleaner then mine. I can't even tell then if all of these parts are there. Do mind showing me a pic zoomed out? Like what the knee press looks like? Also do you happen to know what the large hole in the back side of the case is for? The small one I assume is for the key but big one?
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle; Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight; my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758; Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66; Singer 99K Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  6. #26
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    HIya!

    Mine is only cleaner because I've had it longer. It had its major clean up a couple of months ago. About the time I posted about needing to JB weld a bobbin winder, in fact. We have the stuff, we're going to try it this weekend along with twisting up some piano wire to recreate a spring.

    I'm not sure what big hole at the back you're referring to. Is it the rectangular one beside the motor controller, in the wood? If so, it matches the one left of the needle on the other side. The 2 are for holding the lid on.

    Here are a couple more pics.
    The last pic is of the top upside down, showing you the pieces that connect to the base to hold the two pieces together. The yellow string holds my key.
    Hope this helps.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  7. #27
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Mine didn't come with a key, and I meant the large round hole. In your pic there is something metal? Protruding out of it? It's so cool to peek at a machine. I bought this one with out to much knowledge about it. I just made sure it had the important bits! At least one bobbin and the shuttle and wonder and stuff. Any idea what the clip inside the lid is for?
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle; Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight; my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758; Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66; Singer 99K Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  8. #28
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kittywolf13 View Post
    Mine didn't come with a key, and I meant the large round hole. In your pic there is something metal? Protruding out of it? It's so cool to peek at a machine. I bought this one with out to much knowledge about it. I just made sure it had the important bits! At least one bobbin and the shuttle and wonder and stuff. Any idea what the clip inside the lid is for?
    Oh! That hole is where the knee lever goes. (That's what you see protruding from it)
    You can see the hole in one of the other pics.
    The clip inside the lid is to hold an oil can.

    This machine needs the winder fixed, or replaced, so that's why it's still on my bench, but it was whole when I bought it. The winder came apart in my hands when I was reassembling it after cleaning.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  9. #29
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Sh very cool. Can you get a pic (whenever) of the knee lever? I think the extra metal bit is a light cover from another machine or something. It looks to smal to be part of the knee lever and is thin sheet metal or aluminum. But that's good to know that's what the hole is.
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle; Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight; my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758; Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66; Singer 99K Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  10. #30
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Can you post a pic of the metal? I know there's an aluminum insert inside the light, it's probably 2" x 3" ish... curved.

    These links show what the knee lever looks like in its entirety:
    http://oldsingersewingmachineblog.co...lid-of-a-201k/
    http://oldsingersewingmachineblog.co...nee-lever-201/


    I also learned last week that a 99 will not fit in a 128 case.
    The base of a 128 (or at least the one I have) is too shallow, so the machine can't seat if the hinges are used, and there's no suspension room to keep the 99 mechanism off the base.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

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