Mrs. SewNSew

Many of you buy machines in perfect or near perfect condition so rust is not really an issue but some of you buy "antique" machines or fixer uppers. I'm talking about the machines that are between "near perfect" and "rust-bucket" (needing full re-paint).

What do you do (if anything) with paint chipped off the edges? or how about the 2 or 3 areas on the bed where there is a small bit of rust and the paint is bubbled around it?

Rodney

I just tackled one that was badly rusted with bubbling paint. On that one I scraped off the worst of the rust and flaking paint and just oiled it. I wasn't sure how far to take trying to repair it because I knew I was going to give it back to the original owner's family.
I think it depends on the machine. A couple small areas aren't a big deal. Cleaning the rust off and just oiling the machine goes a long way toward making it look better and slows down any further rust. I would scrape off the loose paint so rust can't hide under it, also a smooth bed is easier to sew on.
Rodney

Mrs. SewNSew

How do you go about cleaning the rust off? Did you worry about the edges too or just the flat bed?

Glenn

Here is some pics of a rust bucket 99 and what I do with it. Take the bobbin area apart soak in evaposrust this stood several days. Then all was brushed with a dremel and cupped brass brush. Did not do anything for the pitting put it is clean. Large areas of paint were missing on the bed and chips on the arm. Scraped all the loose paint sanded it bright and shinny and beveled the edges of the good paint. Primed and painted the be. The arm had fair decals so left them. Believe it or not the machines sews like a champ and is quiet considering the amount of rust. It took three weeks to free up the needle bar. Now I am working on making it pretty again touching up chips with paint. Will take me some time to smooth and polish but rust buckets can be made to sew again. This was the worst one I have seen and no I did not buy it a neighbor gave it to me. Next time someone wants to give me a machine I hope I am smart enough to refuse if it looks like this one.
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Mrs. SewNSew

Wow Glenn! Look at you go! You have more energy than I do for sure! I have a couple questions.

When do I use a brass brush and when do I choose a wire brush (steel?)

What kind of primer and paint did you use? Type and was it spray can or what? Did you prime the bed only on the bare spots or did you go over the whole thing?

Rodney

Nice job Glenn! That one started in way worse condition than the 15 I was talking about.
Fortunately the rust was confined to the outside for the most part on mine though the crank ran red with rust for a few days of oiling it.
Rodney

DonnaMiller

If the spots are tiny, then you can clean down to the metal, spray auto primer in a small container and paint on with a very small artist paint brush. Then paint with Rustoleum black paint, either spray or can. I spray it into a small, disposable container and paint it on and feather the edges. Then I use Carnuba wax to protect it. If the whole bed is bad and the decals can't be saved, then I sand, steel wool, prime with the appropriate metal primer, then spray it. From there, you can get new decals or leave it alone. I use the wax rather than a clear coat, but all of this is up to you. It saves the machine for perhaps a full restoration later. White Godzillas have aluminum castings, so require a VERY different primer, which is available at WalMart and white in color, but it takes paint well and so far so good.

barny

Wow! Is that a Centennial? Glenn, you can really make these machines look wonderful.

Glenn

Christy, I taped off the arm and primed and painted the entire bed. I used automotive gloss black and primer from my local auto store. Rustoleum. I use the brass brush it is softer than the steel one. You can use the steel one with no problems it will remove rust faster. Yes spray cans.

Yes Rodney it is a cent.

Glenn

Sorry Barny I meant to say you not Rodney. I have senior moments on occasion.