DianaSwi

I have found that after I clean my VSM with oil they get a white mildew on them..anyone else find a cure for this? DIana

J Miller

You'll probably need to use something to kill the mildew spores inside the case top and bottom as well as the machine.
I've tried quite a few things but for older machines I'm paranoid about the decals and what's left of the shellac clear coat.

Recently I've tried Lysol Disinfecting Wipes on a SEWMORE 128 clone that was covered with mold. Cleaned it right up with no adverse effects. But I have not tried this on an older machine with the Japan type of finish.

I'd start with the case after cleaning your machine. Use the Disinfecting Wipes there first.

Others will have different suggestions, and I'll tune in for those too.


Joe

Mickey2

I usually clean the cases and cabinets with old fashion soap and water (well wringed cloth, nothing gets soaked), if there has been traces of mold I have wiped off with a cloth dampened in vinegar water too. Mildew should not reappear on the machine after general cleaning unless there is some degree of humidity. Is it stored in a heated room? I don't think a film of mineral oil (basic sewing machine oil) should cause mildew? After cleaning you can go over the machine with a dry microfiber cloth, should reduce oil residue.

Sunflowerzz

Cement floors are also a very bad place to store machines. Ask me how I know....

miriam

Glenn might know what to do with the older machines since you could compromise decals. That said the naphtha seems to take care of it for me. Then you have to follow the rest of Glenn's tutorial. On some newer machines, I have used borax and Dawn very careful not to flood anything. Rust would be the risk if it doesn't get dried quickly or water runs into any of the works and doesn't get dried right away.

Stitchit123

Ammonia is the only thing that kills mold and mildew spores== a recipe of 1/4 cp ammonia to 3/4 cp water. A damp rag to wash it off and dry rag right behind then oil your machine. This will not hurt paint or decals. I've been using this recipe for 40+ yrs. Lysol and bleach will not kill mold or mildew spores, they only zap the color out of it. They are still there spreading and growing and they will be seen again. **Household Tip** You can add up to 2 oz of Ammonia to each gallon of paint to prevent mold /mildew returning to those area's we all seem to find. Ex. bathrooms/basements- Wash the area in above recipe -let air dry-then paint

Mickey2

Even after the mildest cleaning mold should not reappar unless there's humidity. You haven't had the chance to reply yet DianaSwi, but do you let lids and cased dry properly befor you pack machines away? Are they stored in a dry heated room? For the desinfectant, I would not use anything unduly harsh on either case or machine.

DonnaMiller

Just be sure any disinfecting wipes don't have bleach of any kind. What Joe said. I have used Lysol Scrubbing Bubbles , but that is only in a DIRE emergency and then not on decals. Mold loves oil and that is why shoes sometimes mold and saddles. It is generally harmless and just looks awful and smells. Mold forms from moisture and dirt too. A friend recommended half a cake of Safeguard soap, still in the box, put inside the case of FWs and it should work on 301s and others too. Don't let it touch the machine. That is why it should be in its box.

Mickey2

Tanned leather should not mold either, under any reasonable condition. What's common is a salty residue after the leather has been wet and if it hasn't been polished or water proofed enough. The salt can com from road salt in winter, but also appear from the leather it's self after it has been wet. I wonder what you have going on there Diana, what type of oil do you have?