Needle Questions
08-09-2013, 11:36 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
Needle Questions
Hi All,
On my Anker Phoenix/Baer Rempel Pfaff 130-knock-off machine (who I've named Ziggy, because all that is just too many names/words) the needles are round shank.
I have the needles which came with him. Oddly, there are two lengths. Why would some be shorter?
Can someone tell me how to determine which needle will -not- wreck your machine? I was stitching on a 90 needle, and all was well, but I switched to a 70 because of finer fabric, and thread nests abounded. I gave up and used a different machine.* Could be coincidence. I was only trying to sew silk and jersey. I was wondering where there any needle considerations of which I am not aware.
I am a very novice sewist, so really I know -very- little about different needles. I understand the difference between round shank and not, and that the needle groove needs to face me. However, I do not understand about other factors; needle style, length, anything else?
I once read that Singer needles are ever-so-slightly different enough from other needles so as to cause bobbin case damage if you use a non-Singer needle in a Singer machine. Or something to that effect. I am not using Singer needles here, but that fact (if it is true) had me thinking that needle length is critical, and perhaps I am missing a (pun-intended) point?
I thank you all in advance for any help/insight you can give me.
-C.
*Aha!!!! Justification for having 7 machines after all!!! ;-)
On my Anker Phoenix/Baer Rempel Pfaff 130-knock-off machine (who I've named Ziggy, because all that is just too many names/words) the needles are round shank.
I have the needles which came with him. Oddly, there are two lengths. Why would some be shorter?
Can someone tell me how to determine which needle will -not- wreck your machine? I was stitching on a 90 needle, and all was well, but I switched to a 70 because of finer fabric, and thread nests abounded. I gave up and used a different machine.* Could be coincidence. I was only trying to sew silk and jersey. I was wondering where there any needle considerations of which I am not aware.
I am a very novice sewist, so really I know -very- little about different needles. I understand the difference between round shank and not, and that the needle groove needs to face me. However, I do not understand about other factors; needle style, length, anything else?
I once read that Singer needles are ever-so-slightly different enough from other needles so as to cause bobbin case damage if you use a non-Singer needle in a Singer machine. Or something to that effect. I am not using Singer needles here, but that fact (if it is true) had me thinking that needle length is critical, and perhaps I am missing a (pun-intended) point?
I thank you all in advance for any help/insight you can give me.
-C.
*Aha!!!! Justification for having 7 machines after all!!! ;-)
08-09-2013, 05:23 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 476
I think I remember that your machine takes system 1798. I think it's engraved on the bed slide or needle plate. Is that right?
Here is the Ismacs chart that shows the dimensions for round shanks:
http://www.ismacs.net/needle_and_sha...und-shank.html
1798 is 9th row from top.
Two different lengths of needle can work if the distance from the top of the needle to the top of the eye is correct, and the needle doesn't hit the hook or bobbin case. But be careful because I've read that the bobbin case can be grazed without making a sound or vibration.
Was the 70 needle a different length than the 90 needle? If not, you could try it on a lightweight cotton. Sometimes on thin knits or slippery fabrics the thread doesn't make a proper loop for the hook to catch, but usually that results in skipped stitches.
Oh- Another thing -- the engraving on your slide plate might be actual size -- compare your needles with it.
Here is the Ismacs chart that shows the dimensions for round shanks:
http://www.ismacs.net/needle_and_sha...und-shank.html
1798 is 9th row from top.
Two different lengths of needle can work if the distance from the top of the needle to the top of the eye is correct, and the needle doesn't hit the hook or bobbin case. But be careful because I've read that the bobbin case can be grazed without making a sound or vibration.
Was the 70 needle a different length than the 90 needle? If not, you could try it on a lightweight cotton. Sometimes on thin knits or slippery fabrics the thread doesn't make a proper loop for the hook to catch, but usually that results in skipped stitches.
Oh- Another thing -- the engraving on your slide plate might be actual size -- compare your needles with it.
Last edited by Sheluma; 08-09-2013 at 05:27 PM. Reason: typo
08-09-2013, 05:56 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 476
Here is some general info on needles that I've found helpful:
http://www.joann.com/static/project/0704/PA00223.pdf
http://www.sewmamasew.com/2009/06/se...o-choose-them/
I've read that stretch needles (singer yellow band and schmetz stretch) are offset towards the hook and shouldn't be used in older machines. Schmetz ball point should be okay, I would think.
http://www.joann.com/static/project/0704/PA00223.pdf
http://www.sewmamasew.com/2009/06/se...o-choose-them/
I've read that stretch needles (singer yellow band and schmetz stretch) are offset towards the hook and shouldn't be used in older machines. Schmetz ball point should be okay, I would think.
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