Old National..
#11
You may not have found the bobbin yet. If you slide the closest slide towards you may find ( fingers crossed) a shuttle ( bullet thing) with a bobbin inside. Hopefully you'll have more bobbins with your box of bits. You don't show a belt to your handwheel so Quiltingcandy has a great puzzle.
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 6
You may not have found the bobbin yet. If you slide the closest slide towards you may find ( fingers crossed) a shuttle ( bullet thing) with a bobbin inside. Hopefully you'll have more bobbins with your box of bits. You don't show a belt to your handwheel so Quiltingcandy has a great puzzle.
#14
Bwirth, yes, you could run a short belt from a motor to the winder, or even include the hand wheel
if you choose. If you include the handwheel you may want to loosen the knob inside it to release the cutch so all the internal machine parts wont spin as you drive the bobbin.
Mounting a machine head in a cabinet requires many measurements. Hinge brackets for the pins my be at different lengths apart. Also the hole for the machine base may be too wide, too long, have wrong corners, etc. Thankfully many machines used the same sized base. Someone might even have a list of what might fit.
if you choose. If you include the handwheel you may want to loosen the knob inside it to release the cutch so all the internal machine parts wont spin as you drive the bobbin.
Mounting a machine head in a cabinet requires many measurements. Hinge brackets for the pins my be at different lengths apart. Also the hole for the machine base may be too wide, too long, have wrong corners, etc. Thankfully many machines used the same sized base. Someone might even have a list of what might fit.
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Cari
#17
The wire belt is made to drive the winder -that is how National did it with the electric friction drive motors. That should be shown in the manual.
At least there are a lot of National made machines out there, so finding a treadle cabinet shouldn't be too hard. If you go that route, the treadle belt will also drive the bobbin winder, instead of the wire belt.
BTW - does the manual say what the initials stand for (it may on the back side)? yours appears to be a later made electric version of the IEB. I collect manuals and have not encountered one with those initials on it before, so I'm very curious.
At least there are a lot of National made machines out there, so finding a treadle cabinet shouldn't be too hard. If you go that route, the treadle belt will also drive the bobbin winder, instead of the wire belt.
BTW - does the manual say what the initials stand for (it may on the back side)? yours appears to be a later made electric version of the IEB. I collect manuals and have not encountered one with those initials on it before, so I'm very curious.
Last edited by Macybaby; 11-04-2016 at 07:09 AM.
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 6
The wire belt is made to drive the winder -that is how National did it with the electric friction drive motors. That should be shown in the manual.
At least there are a lot of National made machines out there, so finding a treadle cabinet shouldn't be too hard. If you go that route, the treadle belt will also drive the bobbin winder, instead of the wire belt.
BTW - does the manual say what the initials stand for (it may on the back side)? yours appears to be a later made electric version of the IEB. I collect manuals and have not encountered one with those initials on it before, so I'm very curious.
At least there are a lot of National made machines out there, so finding a treadle cabinet shouldn't be too hard. If you go that route, the treadle belt will also drive the bobbin winder, instead of the wire belt.
BTW - does the manual say what the initials stand for (it may on the back side)? yours appears to be a later made electric version of the IEB. I collect manuals and have not encountered one with those initials on it before, so I'm very curious.
On another note. I picked up a 1948 Singer 66 in really nice condition. Have to say I am confused by the bobbins though. The one in the machine is from what I can see is a domed top and bottom, no holes.. But every bobbin I can find online for the 66 has holes... Is that an issue or is it just a visual thing?
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
On another note. I picked up a 1948 Singer 66 in really nice condition. Have to say I am confused by the bobbins though. The one in the machine is from what I can see is a domed top and bottom, no holes.. But every bobbin I can find online for the 66 has holes... Is that an issue or is it just a visual thing?
Cari
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
I have three different types of 66 bobbins; the oldest I've seen was in the accessory drawer of a treadle, back clamp model 66. It looked like they were made on a lathe machine from one piece metal, with only the tiny pin hole for the winder. My other Singers are 1930s to 50s, and they are made for more than once piece, very finely moulded and polished. The new ones I have bought brand new have holes in the side (I guess it's easier to keep an eye on how much thread is left), very shiny, polished, made of one piece of metal. I wish they could polish the new ones equally well in side the "hub" too, the metal is more crudely finished there and not always go on the bobbin winder. I have noticed differences when I looke at pictures of new ones, so they are not all exactly the same.
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