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Is it possible to 'spot' shellac?

Is it possible to 'spot' shellac?

Old 11-18-2014, 08:25 AM
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Default Is it possible to 'spot' shellac?

I have a 42 cabinet that's in nice shape over all, although the veneer is lifted on the bottom in one place. I read to use an old credit card to push in glue, then clamp, so I think that's okay.

The bigger problem, I think, is a ring on the top where the finish is completely gone. I wondered whether Glenn's technique with denatured alcohol and shellac would work on just that spot? Could I kind of feather in from the areas that are okay? Or is there another way to restore the shine to that spot without redoing the whole top?

Thank you![ATTACH=CONFIG]499321[/ATTACH]
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:37 AM
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I have a similar problem, where there is a spot worn off from laying on the bar that comes out when you open the lid of the cabinet. Thanks
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:21 AM
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Yes you can spot shellac. First start out with a little shellac with a drop or two of linseed oil and french polish the area. Keep doing this many times until the area is level with the rest then French polish to blend in. You may want to use the amber shellac first to darken the water ring then use clear to finish the repair. You can also use a fine artist brush and brush the shellac on in thin coats until it is level with the rest of the finish. Waiting about an hour between coats, should only take about three thin coats. Then You can french polish the area smooth. After a week of curing wax the entire cabinet with a good quality past wax. I use Bri wax.
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
Yes you can spot shellac.
That's great news! Thanks so much for the clear instructions. Do you think it would help to lightly sand the dark edges around the ring?
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:15 PM
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You can but not required the new shellac will melt into the old. If you do sand keep it on the edges only are you will end up with a larger area to repair.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
You can but not required the new shellac will melt into the old. If you do sand keep it on the edges only are you will end up with a larger area to repair.
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Glenn, you're brilliant. How many cabinets don't have this type of damage?
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
You can but not required the new shellac will melt into the old. If you do sand keep it on the edges only are you will end up with a larger area to repair.
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Could we see some pics of ones you have restored? Please!!
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:36 AM
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Default Bruce cabinet and machine I cleaned up

The cabinet was cleaned and then french polished then waxed with Bri wax and very fine steel wool. the bad areas were spot shellaced then went over the entire cabinet with french polish and waxed. The machine was so dirty I could not see the decals so cleaned and french polished it also. This one was done about two years ago. Sews great. I have about 6 more that I have done this way.
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Attached Thumbnails christmas-2012-084.jpg   christmas-2012-085.jpg   christmas-2012-062.jpg   christmas-2012-067.jpg  

Last edited by Glenn; 11-19-2014 at 10:38 AM. Reason: Add info
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:03 AM
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Wow, Glenn, that is breathtaking!

Do you have a preference between applying the shellac to the spot with an artist brush and then french polishing or doing only french polishing? I'd like to just try the artist brush approach first, because I think it will be easier to tell what I'm doing.

Do you use canned shellac or dissolve flakes? (The flakes I've found are really expensive.)
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:46 AM
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Linda, I use both the flakes and canned shellac. It is perfectly fine to use the shellac in qt cans you get at Lowes or Home Depot. It is about $13 a can here but will last you thru several cabinets. Flakes can get pricey but they are better than the canned because you can mix up what you need. I have had excellent results with the canned so go for that. When I had my restoration shop I would use only the flakes but now retired I use the canned it is easier.
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