Changing the race wcik on a Singer 66-1
 

I'm posting the link to my blog which has more detailed information on this process.
When I first started collecting machines two years ago, my first machine was the Singer 66-1.
I didn't know what a race wick was or that I needed to replace it. Or for that matter, how to remove the bobbin case, ejector bar, and where the heck the screw was located that held the feed dogs in place.
I do now! I'm sure there are others that do not know this information, and I'm here to help and share what I have learned-recently. :)

First off the link to my blog: http://color-my-world-with-warmth.bl...k-on-66-1.html

And now just the photos. You want more than photos, then visit my blog.
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This is a really good tutorial. I had to go to your blog to see the pics though. Those here are just too big.

Now I have a couple questions for you.

A: Is it absolutely necessary to remove the feed dogs?

B: Once the feed dogs are out, is there any possibility of them going back in out of adjustment?

I've got an early 66-4, four other 66s, 2 99s and a Japanese machine I've got to do this too. I'm not looking forward to removing the feed dogs if I can get away without doing it.

Thanks for posting this.

Joe

I thought you wouldn't be able to see the photos here; so, that is why I made mention of my blog and just posted the photo without description here.

A: No, it isn't necessary to remove the feed dogs. I just gave that a test on my older Singer 66-1( I own two Singer 66-1 with back clamps) and was able to remove the pin screw from the ejector bar. The pin screw just cleared the feed dogs.

B: No, since there is just one way for them to be held in place, by the feed dog screw. Once you see and do this, you will have a better understanding( at least this is the case for the older models).

Realize that this is to help in removal of the wick screw. There most likely have been changes in design, but overall it should be the same.

An example of this change in design is found in my two Singer 66-1 with back clamps. One has wick screw and the other doesn't.

I just went to clean and change the wick on my older Singer 66-1, only to find out that it doesn't have a screw wick or even a place for one. Here is a photo:
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vintagemotif,

Thanks now I feel a bit easier about doing this. I have a 99K that was rusted up badly and when I took the feed dogs out to de-rust them the screw shrunk. Not kidding, it was holding but now it's too small. I've yet to figure this out. At first I thought I was confusing the feed dog screw with another one. But I can't find any other screw like that, and I'm not missing any.

So I was a bit paranoid.

I've got 8 of these babies to do.

Joe

Monica, GREAT tutorial, and pictures! Couple of questions: You say to clean all items with alcohol, why alcohol? You make it look very easy. I better take a lot of pictures to be able to put the area back together. How long did the whole process take you? I have my Spartan, I will tackle that one first, and I have a 66-1, 1921. I will have to see if that one has a wick. Thank you

On Rain's blog, he mentions cleaning the Singer 201 bobbin case, hook and race with rubbing alcohol. I did that, and just decided to do the same on the 66.

It took me around four hours because of stopping to photograph the steps. Plus, the wick didn't want to come out of the screw; so, I had to soak that numerous times.

My one machine without wick is from 1907, and the one with wick is from 1914.

Monica, great job with the photos! Don't worry about the title - we all do that sometimes, our brain moves faster than our hands! Again, great job with the photos!

Nancy

Thanks, Monica. I'll go home and check my 66-1 and my 99 to see if they need the wicks changed. The 66-1 is 1909, and the 99 is 1928 (I think).