Can someone point me to a tutorial on cleaning the bobbin area on a 201? I got it apart and hung my head in shame for letting it get that dirty, right after I realized that, no, I didn't break the clip. Whew!

Now I need to get it lined up and back in place.

Oh, I figured it out. The bobbin tension is on the left and doesn't turn so that went into place. A couple of gentle tries to understand the clip opposite the operator goes first then use the tiny screwdriver to put the other in place. Hey, I think she likes me better now!

thanks for the information I will check it out. Happy4th of July
I wish the good people working on this sewing machines could sell them here. Then you would know you were getting a great sewing machine. And information needed. I did sell one embroidery machine, at 1/2 of used price given to me by All brands. I bought a upgrade. It has been years ago, I did hear from board but sent information of price with backup from All brands and received ok. I am not a trouble maker I follow the rules. Sold on private side by interested party all were happy. I don't think you can do that only more. It would be nice to have a page for selling & buying.They could say board not responsible your on your own, but that may be in today's world not possible. We are not in the old days, when things were not so crazy. Buyer was happy throw in some extra's and I was too with my new machine. All brands now sells used or trade in machines. I helps them sells new machines for used ones and gets others buying trade in to get into the sewing world and classes, plus store items.

This weekend I discovered the joys of rust removal by electricity!!!

NOTE OF CAUTION: Electricity is dangerous. Water is dangerous, water AND electricity combined is REALLY dangerous!!!!

Car battery charger
5 gal bucket
4 gallons of water combined with 4 tablespoons of baking soda
piece of scrap steel for the anode (red wire connects here)
rusty parts (black wire connects here)


30 minutes = Part clean

[ATTACH=CONFIG]529383[/ATTACH]

parts before
[ATTACH=CONFIG]529384[/ATTACH]

parts after
[ATTACH=CONFIG]529385[/ATTACH]

I'm going to have to try that.

CD in Oklahoma

This is just like having Laser surgery on my eyes, my biggest complaint is that I waited so long to try it....

It really was just as easy as can be.
When I think of all of the parts that I wire wheeled by hand......

EDIT: Once removed the parts do need to be scrubbed to remove the now loosened stuff

EDIT: additional CAUTION. this process makes bubbles. those bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen being seperated. DO NOT DO this in an inclosed location.

Well phooey. What fun is it if you have to use caution?

CD in Oklahoma

i don't know about more fun, unless you mean that by using caution you can have fun for longer! hehe

I've used electrolytic rust removal for larger things like woodworking machinery. It does wonders for cleaning up cast iron. It only removes rust, good metal isn't harmed. Baking soda works, washing soda is a little better. You can leave parts in the solution for as long as you want with no damage. It also softens up old paint so it's easier to remove. I do find it's faster for me to wire wheel small items though.
You can build a tank as large as you need to. I've seen car bodies cleaned this way. I use an 18 gallon Rubbermaid tub for most of my stuff. I've also used a kiddy pool for larger items like my tablesaw cabinet.
Sometimes newer "smart" battery chargers don't want to work unless there is a battery in the circuit as well.
I bought a 12VDC power supply for running my tank.
The biggest downside is you have to occasionally clean the anode or replace it.

Here's a good explanation of the process: http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Rus...ctrolysis.ashx
Rodney

Rodney,

If you will use carbon rods for the anode you will keep a cleaner solution and the anodes stay cleaner. I've used electrolysis for years in the machine shop and cleaning old cast iron cookware.

David