Do not use any of the oil or lubricant that came with your machine. You have no idea how old it is. It's not that expensive, so pick up some new.
The AF indicates your machine was made between 1938 and 1941. If the first numbers are a 000-152, it was made in 1938, 152-397 indicates 1939, 397-740 indicates 1940, 740-999 indicates it was made in 1941.
Google Featherweight and you will find all kinds of information about caring for your machine. They say to use sewing machine oil on a soft cloth to clean your machine. Don't use any type of household cleaner for fear of destroying your decals.
This is some of the information I have collected: If you have just rescued the machine from a dusty cellar where it has satwithout a case then I'd recommend a gentle foaming cleaner called Tuff Stuff.It's made by STP and should be available at your auto store. I'd recommendwaxing the machine afterwards—neutral boot polish from a Western outfitters isgreat for this. You want a hard wax, not a cream. Don't use a car wax—most ofthese have a degree of abrasive in them designed to remove traffic film—andsome of the paint.
Always test any cleaner on a small, hidden part of a machine first to ensurethere is no unexpected reaction
For regular daily cleaning a simple spray-on furniture polish will do thetrick. But mask off the tension assembly or the polish will build up there andavoid getting too much on the outside of the belt where the bobbin winder wheelruns.
For the case, you can use the Tuff Stuff again, but follow up with a black boot polish asthis will help mask any rubbing on the case.
I used household cleaner to wash down the inside of my case, then sat it out in the sun with the lid open on a hot sunny day to remove the odors from it being stored. These little machines require regular oiling to remain happily running. Be sure to locate the oiling diagram and follow it diligently!
Have fun! You'll love her as I do my five!

I'm still dreaming of a featherweight.

Yes, scrollplate is much more expensive than the plain plate. My husband works on Featherweights. He refurbishes them and then sells them - just for a hobby. He just loves working on them. He thinks the scrollplates came from the earlier Featherweights. They cost about $60.

I just got one yesterday. I oiled everything and buffed and dusted it. It sews a beautiful beautiful stitch.

Great advise Karen....I have two featherweights, Cornelia Mae and Lula Mae and love them both. They make the neatest stitches and work every time. I also have several other vintage machines but use my FW's mostly.

I bought my first one off of Craig's List. The next two I bought from eBay. I love sewing on my FWs. I take turns using them. The cheapest I paid was $265, the most expensive was $465. I have a 1951, 1953 and a 1964.

I just recently saw another one on Craig's List that was just gorgeous for $300. They are still out there, you just have to look for them.

Gail

Just a little tip on oil for a FW. I was running out of oil, so the fabric dept. mgr. said to just get something from the Hardware Dept. That sounded strange, so called my tech. He said;" absolutely don't use that; it is too heavy, and will not do the job but will mess up your machine!" Always use sewing machine lubricants!!
Mariah.

Congratulations, I hope you enjoy sewing on yours as much as I love sewing on mine.

Buying FW
 

I just bought a very nice, clean, and serviced FW with a Centennial badge at an antique show for $250. I looked at 2 others in a secondhand store priced at $450 each. Keep looking they are there. I now own 6 of the little cuties.

Thanks so much for your comments! I'll be sure to check it out and yes, it's lubricant and not oil...will definitely do some more homework before working on it. I loaded pictures on to my husband's laptop this morning and will try to post.